[roberte5]

Sorry I made a mistake calling one thing a bell-crank.I didn't realize I could blow up pictures for a better view.
I blew up the picture of the disc that holds down the wire into the servo,now I see what your talking about.Simply screw down a small disc over the top of wire on your servo and that holds in wire or push-rod.

 

[Zamfir]

To get the play out is easy. put a drop of thick CA on the zbend where it goes into the servo arm and wiggle your stick back and forward while hitting it with accelerator. (When I say move the stick I mean on the transmitter with the linkage all hooked up and powered up) It works great for removing slop. dont stop moving it till it drys. 10 secs er so. It makes a ca bushing of sorts.

 

[andrew69]

Any suggestions or where can a person get a good set of needle-nose pliers or other tools for working on assories for micro servos would be highly appreciated.

http://www.lindstromtools.com/tools_pliers_rx.htm

I have a lindstrom tool set, (my work got them for me) quite simply the best cutters / needle nose pliers you can get,

Andrew

 

[Wind Junkie]

Sorry I made a mistake calling one thing a bell-crank.I didn't realize I could blow up pictures for a better view.
I blew up the picture of the disc that holds down the wire into the servo,now I see what your talking about.Simply screw down a small disc over the top of wire on your servo and that holds in wire or push-rod.

Right. The CA trick would probably work too, but in my case the whole deal was going to be buried inside an EDF where it would not be serviceable so I needed a permanent well wearing solution for the life of the plane.

Having the right tools for the job as folks are saying is always better.

I've tried Spaz's method and it works well but the ease of use of those Z bend pliers is so nice I forgot in my case the bends would be too big so I just improvised.

 

[Spaz]

not my method, i read than in MAN i think.. for small planes when you use cf rod there is another way that works great.. can't find a pic..

 

[roberte5]

I finally got the slop out and found a use for the E/Z Links Dubro #849.

I just put on the EZ link first it made the clevis part of z-bend much narrower and it also acts like a spring keeping the end of z-bend against control horn.Some heat shrink tubing and a drop of CA over the part that snaps over wire will keep it on securely.

The idea hit me after reading all the suggestions.

thanks,Robert

 

[Gatorb8]

Check those E/Z links for binding at max throws
when they bind, they can pop off (hazardous if on the ELE!)
I know you CA them, but binding is bad and may pop the CA
that's why I prefer the Z
Gb8

 

[roberte5]

After I hooked up the reciever I didn't like what I heard.A little servo strain.There were just too many bends and each bend effected the other.
The plane is a prototype for very advanced 3D flyers and the airlerons are set up for extra long servo arms to give airleron enough throw to make right angles.

I'm just going to move my control horn over so I have a nice straight push rod and so the push rod is at a right angle when servo is in neutral.

One of the great features of this plane the pre-cut servo holes are cut so that the servo arms at neutral are horizontal or paralell to the hinge line.

I could order and use an extra long servo arm but I'm not ready for that much throw this will be my 1st true 3D plane.Just by using the longest servo arms that came with the Futaba S114 will give me plenty of throw.

 

[roberte5]

By moving my control horn so I wouldn't have so much throw and using the parts and methods used on the lightrc.com videos the problem
with my airlerons has been solved.

The above method took just a few minutes and eliminated all the wire bending.No slop the push rods are much stronger,and would be impossible to come apart or bend under pressure.