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Remove the broken robarts with a sharpened brass tube.

Use the next size larger to make balsa plugs to fill the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I'm using hv servos will it go 7v to rx and 6 to ignition? Is that the only option? I searched ibec and didnt find anything
 

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PAR said:
Remove the broken robarts with a sharpened brass tube.

Use the next size larger to make balsa plugs to fill the hole.
I've done this a few times. sharpen the inside of the brass tube with an X-acto blade. Chuck the brass up in a variable speed drill and have at it. I typically use a fairly slow speed on the drill. Once you get past the knuckle on the hinge, the rest is easy. Just don't push too hard. It can make dents in your control surface. I've also found I had to physically push the chunk of broken hinge out of the brass tube after each hinge.

I'm using a single battery for radio and ignition on the Stix 60 in my avitar. No interference issues in about 70 flights. I do have an Rcexl ignition shutoff switch in the circuit and am taking full voltage from an A123 to the ignition.

I've used Wrongway's diodes on a couple of ignitions that couldn't take full battery voltage. They work great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
So use the kill switch, plug Battery into it, and plug it into rx/ignition with the diode between ignition and killswitch? Will that setup work?

As far as the hinges I'm working on it now. I got a 3/16 brass tube and got all the old hinges out, also got new 3/16 hinges so I could just push them into the old hole but the brass walked out of the hole like a drill but does and now 2 of the fuselage side holes are off center, the rest of the holes look fine should I only fix the 2 bad ones or just plug them all and start over? I'm debating just using ca hinges is that a bad idea?
 

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PAR said:
Remove the broken robarts with a sharpened brass tube.

Use the next size larger to make balsa plugs to fill the hole.
Can't you also melt them out with a soldering iron?
 

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I dont see why you cant run your system all off one batt if you're using hv servos. The dle ignition is rated for it. Thats how I roll.
 

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Goofy said:
PAR said:
Remove the broken robarts with a sharpened brass tube.

Use the next size larger to make balsa plugs to fill the hole.
Can't you also melt them out with a soldering iron?
Might work......never tried....... :dk:

You be the guinea pig and let us know. :lol:
 

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imblaze89 said:
So use the kill switch, plug Battery into it, and plug it into rx/ignition with the diode between ignition and killswitch? Will that setup work?

As far as the hinges I'm working on it now. I got a 3/16 brass tube and got all the old hinges out, also got new 3/16 hinges so I could just push them into the old hole but the brass walked out of the hole like a drill but does and now 2 of the fuselage side holes are off center, the rest of the holes look fine should I only fix the 2 bad ones or just plug them all and start over? I'm debating just using ca hinges is that a bad idea?
You only need the diode if your ign. system is not rated for HV.

If the hinges just drop into the new hole, you'll need to plug them all. If they have a little friction going in just plug the off center ones.

Personally I'm not a fan of CA hinges........They tend to be stiff which requires extra servo power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
I think only the new dle ignitions are good to 7 volts I got a older version used. All I know it says 4-6v on the unit where my new dle30 says 4.8-7.4 Anyway I can see it twitching like the throttle and rons twitch at the same time I wonder if it's the rx going in and out of fail safe but I didn't bother to open the hatch and see. Something ain't right. I may try the killswitch
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
So disaster strikes again lost complete control and rx locked up at full throttle and watched helplessly as it fly around on its own before crashing into the road at full speed. It hit so hard it split the carbon tube on top. Luckily it's fixable, it's unbelievable how tough these things are, the fuse is fine one wing is ok except the wing tube socket came out and only the left wing has heavy damage.

I think the rx is shot the ignition doesn't seem to work and the motor feels a little rough when I turn it by hand, may test run it on a bench before back at it. Should I buy a different ignition for it At this point? I know the 20 has that timing curve should I go with something else?

Defiantly need to fix the rx battery issue
 

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Man, that sucks. Looks totally fixable.

Not a DLE20 guy, but as I understand it, you can get a standard Rcexl ignition (or DLE ignition for other than the 20) and use it. The timing must be reset for 28 degrees BTDC. It isn't difficult. I've switched several 3W engines to Rcexl ignitions and had to change the timing.
 

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The newer dle20's don't have the wierd timing I don't think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I can get the standard rcexl ignition for around 50 bucks the dle is nearly twice that and apparently made by rcexl too. Unless I just need the dle I will get the cheaper one.

Is it possible to bend the crankshaft in a crash? I've took some hard hits with glow and never had a problem but not sure about gas, it feels a little rough when turning it by hand but when u put a prop on and flip it feels fine.
 

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Ask Richard from WrongWay, he is pretty knowledgeable with the DLE20's and the timing.
 

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spectrum radio?
 

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What a bummer. I've had it happen to me too. In fact my MJ65 has crashed twice because of radio issues. Your right though, the MJ65 is very tough. I had to rebuild most of one wing last year and she's still flying. Glad she's not a total loss.
 
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