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That looks great. Nice work.
 
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I started using Permatex Ultra Copper on my muffler bolts. Never had one come loose since then.
I've done that but just found the 272 was easier to break free and then clean up the threads.

The elevator halves and the joiner are all glued up and I also glued on the rudder control horns.
 

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Rebuilding an OG 94” AJ laser for bro BLewis from the wing tube forward. Needs a motor box and firewall but it’s all one big puzzle piece so it all has to go to be replaced.
Table Wood Vehicle Floor Aircraft

Toy airplane Aircraft Vehicle Airplane Monoplane
 

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Those AJ lazers fly amazing! What power plant is he using? Got a pull on my my friends 110cc and couldn’t believe how great it flew!

Making some slow headway on the Stix27. This is the toughest build I’ve attempted mainly because using micro lite covering. This stuff isn’t easy to work with but it’s going. I did figure out doing it inside with AC helps a lot. The shit tacks to itself in the Virginia summer heat as soon as you peel the backing- The weight as of now with the two wing servos installed is 3.7oz
Wheel Triangle Creative arts Wing Art
 

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Wow! Nice work on the Stix 27!!

Cool report on the Laser too Woodpilot (y) (y)
 

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The elevator linkage is done and I also started sealing the hinge gap with some Blenderm. However I was not able to finish since my roll ran out and I came up about 3 inches short.

So now I am looking at buying from Amain or Amazon since it doesn't appear to be available locally.
 

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I just always used covering or packing tape to seal gaps. Im surprised they aren’t presealed. EF and SW and Pilot are.
 

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The hinges had to be glued. I had to seal the gaps on my EF planes in the past too.
I use a flexible med tape from Wally World. It’s like Blemderm, but not totally smooth, a bit of a pattern to it. Works fine and it was cheap and available. Robot or human?
 

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Rudder on the EF Edge had seemed to develop some slop. I was ok with it until it got worse and after the last flight the rudder was bouncing back and forth sitting still. Opened the servo up and yup that’s a missing tooth. Should have a replacement early next week though.
Second I ordered some more batts for it. Never heard of the brand before but they where reviewed well so figured what the hell. I will report back after I put some time on them.
Table Automotive tire Peripheral Wood Input device
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Tire Font
Computer keyboard Peripheral Input device Space bar Automotive tire
 
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there are a couple guys here using those packs. They seem to work great. And at that price point, buying the 100c is easily affordable. Small packs up to I think their 6s5200 in EDF jets, all happy.
 

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I’d see if Hitec will repair it or replace it.
I didn’t buy it new so I’m not worried about it. Club member has a brand new one he dropped off at the field for me to get it back in the air but they won’t stay long. I plan to upgrade all around to either KST 215mg or 315mg. Basically what these new 48” planes from EF can dish out the old hitec’s can’t hang anymore.
Before servos though I’m upgrading to the T Motor and esc setup that Jase is running. More power yet way more efficient so better flight times.
 

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I think most of the batteries come out of the same factories anyway.. I've tried a couple of different brands and they are working fine.
Mostly I have been buying batteries when Thunder Power has a sale and they are working fine.
 

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I got the pull-pull cable done for the rudder on the AJ Raven this weekend.

The first go around seemed to be just fine and I'm still not sure what happened but I couldn't get all of the slack out. It's like something gave after being caught up because I was pretty much done and then I wasn't.

It's just as well because in the process I discovered the cables were going over a former in the fuse. I had a set of cables that appear to be the same diameter from a previous plane that I upgraded to the kevlar with (Extreme Flight Edge I'm guessing) and some crimps so I redid the whole thing today.

Now I have a tight, but not too tight, pull-pull setup for the rudder.
 

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You’ll have slack on one of them. If you take out all slack from both sides at full deflection you’ll have too much tension at neutral.
 
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