[BalsaDust]

Aileron pushrods made up.

Not sure if I got lucky and got a good set or they will decide to act up once installed in the plane but the tower pro MG90D's after 30 minutes of bench testing during my lunch break all move great, show no slop, and all centered very well so I will give them a shot. I plan to go very light on the glue holding them in in case they decide to act up and I need to swap them out.

Had to spend some time on the Hacker today but its all ready to go. I had gotten it used and the stator had some surface rust on it. All cleaned up now.

 

[McDDD]

To test the centering, plug the servo into the receiver, then use the trim tab on the transmitter.
Move the trim one way a click at a time until the servo moves.
Then move the trim back the other way and count how many clicks (beeps) it takes for the servo to move again.

If you have an OpenTx transmitter, set the trim to extra fine.

 

[BalsaDust]

To test the centering, plug the servo into the receiver, then use the trim tab on the transmitter.
Move the trim one way a click at a time until the servo moves.
Then move the trim back the other way and count how many clicks (beeps) it takes for the servo to move again.

If you have an OpenTx transmitter, set the trim to extra fine.

I will try that. I have a Taranis X9 Lite running OpenTX and yes have it set to extra fine.

 

[Straightup]

Glad it is going together.

 

[Doug G]

I think Chris is addicted to Crack!

 

[BalsaDust]

I think Chris is addicted to Crack!

They for sure hooked me quick.

 

[BalsaDust]

I'm finding it to be quite fun building during my lunch break. Wings and wing spars glued today and aileron servos fitted.

 

[BalsaDust]

Per your suggestion Dave I have added the brass tube to the stab tube. Got it fitting nicely in the hardware as well. Almost F'ed up big time though. For some reason I thought it would be a good idea to try and smear medium CA to the center of the tube and then slide the brass on. As soon as the brass started going into the glue I could feel it instantly starting to setup. Quickly got it off and cleaned it all up. Proceeded to do the same thing but with Foam Tac and I will let it cure good. Now I'm trying to locate something to make a new control horn with. Shop is all packed away and have no clue where my scraps of fiberglass or carbon sheet are. I think I have some aluminum here at work though that will work.

 

[wyo69cowboy]

Carbon or G10 type material would be best, as the tiny clevis's they use won't span a thick material. I used a Dubro HD servo arm, drilled the center out for the pivot rod, and then sanded down the thickness of the arm itself to fit the clevis. Alternatively, you could use a small ball link on that end of your linkage to attach to the elevator control horn. I hate the printed horns Twisted is sending with kits now. I have a new 43" Crak Yak XL in the box, which came with the cheap printed hardware, and it'll be getting a beefed elevator rod and better horns before assembly

 

[BalsaDust]

Carbon or G10 type material would be best, as the tiny clevis's they use won't span a thick material. I used a Dubro HD servo arm, drilled the center out for the pivot rod, and then sanded down the thickness of the arm itself to fit the clevis. Alternatively, you could use a small ball link on that end of your linkage to attach to the elevator control horn. I hate the printed horns Twisted is sending with kits now. I have a new 43" Crak Yak XL in the box, which came with the cheap printed hardware, and it'll be getting a beefed elevator rod and better horns before assembly

right before I left work I opened up inventor and started modeling a new arm that I’m going to 3D print. 3D printing is an amazing tech and I think what the supply would work fine if they choose a different material. From what I can tell the supplied printed parts are just PLA. They should at least be ABS if not nylon. I have access to a printer than can run nylon at work so I’m gonna try that. Plus I’m beefing up the hub portion just a bit and running gussets basically down the arm. Will post a pic tomorrow.

 

[Doug G]

Building on your lunch breaks, that is cool Chris!

 

[BalsaDust]

Carbon or G10 type material would be best, as the tiny clevis's they use won't span a thick material. I used a Dubro HD servo arm, drilled the center out for the pivot rod, and then sanded down the thickness of the arm itself to fit the clevis. Alternatively, you could use a small ball link on that end of your linkage to attach to the elevator control horn. I hate the printed horns Twisted is sending with kits now. I have a new 43" Crak Yak XL in the box, which came with the cheap printed hardware, and it'll be getting a beefed elevator rod and better horns before assembly

This is what I came up with. The hub around the tube has a bit more beef to it as well as the gussets you see in it. My test part just out of PLA is tremendously stronger than the stock part.

 

[wyo69cowboy]

View attachment 145746

This is what I came up with. The hub around the tube has a bit more beef to it as well as the gussets you see in it. My test part just out of PLA is tremendously stronger than the stock part.

Sweet!

 

[McDDD]

That looks WAY better than the stock control horn!

 

[BalsaDust]

I can share the STL file if anyone wants it though Dave I know you should never have your break again making it out of the fiberglass.

 

[BalsaDust]

Here is the new horn next to the stock. Progress for the day. And the new horn installed.

 

[wyo69cowboy]

Very nice work!

 

[sparkplug]

The extra ribs on side are icing on the cake,very nice,bet it dont break.

 

[doinkedit]

Shiny nipples and cf on a foamy??
That come in the kit?
What size are those??

 

[BalsaDust]

Shiny nipples and cf on a foamy??
That come in the kit?
What size are those??

There are only two in the kit. One pictured is like a M2 thread to I believe a 2mm carbon rod for elevator. Other is m2 to a 1mm carbon rod for the rudder. Both are made of brass.