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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Im building this arf plane and i have some questions!
What is the best methode to glue th wings together on the fuselage?
is an SAito 72 enough for this plane? Is an Zippy Compact 1100mAh 6.6V 10C LiFePo4 Receiver Pack enough?

Wingspan 1424mm

Fuselage Length 1460mm

Wing area 42.6 sq dm

Flying weight 2400g

Thanks







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Thats about 56in i think,dont think 72 be enough. Give it a few days,smarter guys than me will tell you. Weight is the big thing,add it up,all the parts together,that will tell the truth. Looking good so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats about 56in i think,dont think 72 be enough. Give it a few days,smarter guys than me will tell you. Weight is the big thing,add it up,all the parts together,that will tell the truth. Looking good so far.
I really hope the saito 72 is enough. In the manual it is reccomended 2t 46-52
 

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All of my 60 size 3D profiles are around 1400 mm (56"), and they all have OS 120AX engines. A Saito 72 could probably fly these planes for sport aerobatics such as simple loops and rolls, but it definitely would not be able to fly these like a typical 3D profile.

All of my 60 size 3D profiles are using 1100 life batteries, so you should be good there.

Epoxy would probably be the best choice to glue the wings onto the fuselage. Maybe do one wing and the spar first, then mix up another batch of epoxy and mount the other wing before the first side completely hardens.

To me that wing joiner looks too short, and the anti-rotation pins are way too long. If those wing panels don't have a well engineered and built box structure capturing the wing spar, it is probably going to fail at high G loads. That might also explain why they limited a 56" wing span plane to a Saito 72 type of power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All of my 60 size 3D profiles are around 1400 mm (56"), and they all have OS 120AX engines. A Saito 72 could probably fly these planes for sport aerobatics such as simple loops and rolls, but it definitely would not be able to fly these like a typical 3D profile.

All of my 60 size 3D profiles are using 1100 life batteries, so you should be good there.

Epoxy would probably be the best choice to glue the wings onto the fuselage. Maybe do one wing and the spar first, then mix up another batch of epoxy and mount the other wing before the first side completely hardens.

To me that wing joiner looks too short, and the anti-rotation pins are way too long. If those wing panels don't have a well engineered and built box structure capturing the wing spar, it is probably going to fail at high G loads. That might also explain why they limited a 56" wing span plane to a Saito 72 type of power.
Thanks for the input! Can i somehow make the plane stronger? A longer wing joiner or an wing tube so i can take the wings apart when i transport it?
 

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Is the spar box in the wing even deep enough to accept a longer wing joiner? If not, that will need to be modified. Plus the joiner box structure might need to be modified so the longer wing joiner actually results in a stronger wing.

Modifying the wing structure for a removable wing could turn into a major project. Modifying the wing for a tube spar and a removable wing will be even more of a project.
 

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MCDDD right on target,change to wing tube be best. OR make this a slow flyer,like he said 72 will do this. Get the plans for a mojo,or one of Dougs bigger kits to come. I can not stress how much a proper plane will make for 3d stuff. There weight is so low,there so strongly built. I have a mojo25 el,great way to start,so far ahead of cj planes. 72 will fly mojo 40 farely well,if built light,they were built at the start for 40 2st,so i been told. REdesign of planes is hard to do,the guys have taken the guest work out,build a 3d plane with 3d power,you wont be sorry. Plans are here,perhaps some one may recommend a easy to cut out kit you could make. IF in doubt ask,the guys will help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is the spar box in the wing even deep enough to accept a longer wing joiner? If not, that will need to be modified. Plus the joiner box structure might need to be modified so the longer wing joiner actually results in a stronger wing.

Modifying the wing structure for a removable wing could turn into a major project. Modifying the wing for a tube spar and a removable wing will be even more of a project.
Thanks for the tip:) But how is the wing constructed on a Mojo 40 ? as far as i can see tere is no wing tube in that one? And if i decide to just use it like a slow flyer, what can i do with it then can i do rolls and spins?
 

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Thanks for the tip:) But how is the wing constructed on a Mojo 40 ? as far as i can see tere is no wing tube in that one? And if i decide to just use it like a slow flyer, what can i do with it then can i do rolls and spins?
The Mojo is built as a one piece wing, all at once, never joined together. Much stronger that way.
 

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Rolls and spins ok,just dont pull many Gs. BUT,i speak the truth,if you want 3d,if you want to twist and turn,go with a plane made to do that. Where do you live,that gives us more understanding if its hard to get stuff. Even the small 3d planes will fly great,if you have wood can you cut a kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Rolls and spins ok,just dont pull many Gs. BUT,i speak the truth,if you want 3d,if you want to twist and turn,go with a plane made to do that. Where do you live,that gives us more understanding if its hard to get stuff. Even the small 3d planes will fly great,if you have wood can you cut a kit.
If i can do flat spins and some rolls and loops i leave it like it is and have it like a relax flying plane! I live up north in Sweden
 

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No Cash Drops😱😫🥺😥 . What brand is that ?
 
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