Hey Danny, hard start for sure. Check the Himax connectors, they are not soldered very well sometimes and a loose connector will sure make it stutter.
My Himax 2015 has the shakes.
I recently bought a 2015-4100, and at startup it shakes pretty bad. Once the prop is spinning it's fine. I am using the Phoenix controller, and I have noticed that programming soft start makes the problem even worse. I am using 2S Li-Po's and a 12x6 prop. It is not due to looseness in the mount, even when holding the engine tight is still shakes at startup. Any suggestions?
BTW - this sure is a killer little setup for my 8 oz. Zepron foamies.
BTW - this sure is a killer little setup for my 8 oz. Zepron foamies.
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Once they start, they don't do it again until the prop stops. Anymore I install them, ignore it, and go fly.
Yeah, and don't try to ease into the power, get er on up to 1/4 or so right off.
what kind of bullshit is that? is this a CC problem or the motor, Chuck?Yeah, and don't try to ease into the power, get er on up to 1/4 or so right off.
It's kind of a small bug in the system. The motors are not made to go slow, so the timing is a little early and that will cause it to stutter. It shakes like hell but I out of instinct start the motor with a quick blip of throttle and then let it freewheel till I am ready to launch.
You can set up a soft start that will get rid of the startup problem, BUT your throttle response will be slow. For me I like to impress people but busting out of a hover with some massive authority.
You can set up a soft start that will get rid of the startup problem, BUT your throttle response will be slow. For me I like to impress people but busting out of a hover with some massive authority.
if you are running a computer radio, it would be easy to make it so that 3-4 clicks over zero throttle is 1/4 throttle, just make a sharp slope in the throttle curve at the low end.
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You need to load the CC firmware update on the ESC, Mine did this and the update fixed the issue.
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I had a 4100 that did that too. I was so upset I sold the motor, ESC and USB programmer. CC was good and sent a me another ESC, but it didn't solve the problem. As a result I flew mainly brushed GWS 350 motors for a solid year, burning up about 6 of them.
I now have a 2015-5400 and a CC 25 and it workes MUCH better. It still has a little jitter, but nothing like my 4100 had.
I now have a 2015-5400 and a CC 25 and it workes MUCH better. It still has a little jitter, but nothing like my 4100 had.
Well as of right now Ive heard three different answers as to what may correct the problem. Mine does this too and it gets much worse when the motors warm. Sometimes to the point that it wont get itself going at all.
When I talked to auger he suggested resoldering the leads on the motor side. And he also says that the soft start wont help but Lom says it does. And now Stagerbee is telling me I need new fimware.....Oh good grief!!!!!
I think I'll just go buy an Axi :wink:
When I talked to auger he suggested resoldering the leads on the motor side. And he also says that the soft start wont help but Lom says it does. And now Stagerbee is telling me I need new fimware.....Oh good grief!!!!!
I think I'll just go buy an Axi :wink:
I don't know, my 4100 never did it. I sold mine to Matchlessaero and AFAIK it never did it on him. I tend to think it's something to do with some of the Himax motors. Like I said, bad motor to ESC connections will cause it, and tweaking the CC software can make it less noticeable if it's not the connections.spastic said:what kind of bullshit is that? is this a CC problem or the motor, Chuck?Yeah, and don't try to ease into the power, get er on up to 1/4 or so right off.
I think with the typical Himax powered foamy, about 1/4 throttle is needed to hand launch. So by starting off at 1/4 throttle you automatically bust thru the jitter zone. After the plane is in the air, the prop rotation keeps the ESC informed as to motor direction and everything is fine. You can throttle back to a tic and everything is fine.
It seems to be almost a matter of perception. A new guy who has never run a brushless motor might tend to be a bit concerned when he sees his motor hunt for rotation at very low power, while the guys who have been flying them for a while don't give it a second thought.
I tend to agree with Chuck... I have 3 Himax 4100s all running on CC controlers.. I make sure the timing is set to the correct setting on the CC controllers and I don't have a problem with the jitters.. at least I don't notice them... mostly fly at 1/4 throttle or better anyway..
The only time I have the jitters is when starting it off from a complete stop. If I need to program mine then I will do it. I have a frind that bought the USB interface cable which makes programing much easier.
I'll give that a try and report back on my findings. If that doesnt fix it I will try resoldering the leads.........and I may try that first since I'll have to coordinate with my buddy to get the cable.
Either way I'd like to know what causes the problem and what it takes to fix it.
PS......like I said above the problem gets worse when the motor has been run very recently. And it sometimes starts up perfect when it is cold and hasent been run recently. What would be effected more by the temps...the solder connections or the timing/CC programming?
I'll give that a try and report back on my findings. If that doesnt fix it I will try resoldering the leads.........and I may try that first since I'll have to coordinate with my buddy to get the cable.
Either way I'd like to know what causes the problem and what it takes to fix it.
PS......like I said above the problem gets worse when the motor has been run very recently. And it sometimes starts up perfect when it is cold and hasent been run recently. What would be effected more by the temps...the solder connections or the timing/CC programming?
Any electrical connection problems behave differently with temperature changes. May very well be your connections after all.
Thats kinda what I was thinking. Thanks and I'll try the soldering thing.Alfster said:Any electrical connection problems behave differently with temperature changes. May very well be your connections after all.
Well fellas it can't be the Himax motor. Must be the speed controller because I'm running a CC 25amp ESC/Razor 350 powered foamy and it does the same thing. If I come up just a couple clicks to energize the system that thing chatters pretty hard. I do as Chuck Auger says, just run it up quick and get it going.
I think the nature of the brushless beast dictates that there will be a little start-up stutter regardless of the system. The ESC has no idea what way the motor is turning until it gets some feedback and decides if it is right or wrong. It's gonna jiggle a bit.
But certain Himaxes seem to get a really pronounced shaking, guys talk about it shaking the motor off the stick. I think this is a problem with the motor and should be looked into.
But back to what I was saying about perception... I fly Razors, and they probably do stutter just a bit at very low power. I just never notice it because I know if I loiter at idle, it'll likely shake. I also know my plane won't fly at that setting, so it is just instinct to get the power right on up to flying level and fly. After the motor is spinning, eveything is hunky dorey.
But certain Himaxes seem to get a really pronounced shaking, guys talk about it shaking the motor off the stick. I think this is a problem with the motor and should be looked into.
But back to what I was saying about perception... I fly Razors, and they probably do stutter just a bit at very low power. I just never notice it because I know if I loiter at idle, it'll likely shake. I also know my plane won't fly at that setting, so it is just instinct to get the power right on up to flying level and fly. After the motor is spinning, eveything is hunky dorey.
I had this same problem with both my 2015 and 2025. I found that reversing the wires took care of it. You know how when you hook it up, if it runs backwards you reverse any two wires?, put those two back together, and then switch one of them and the wire you didn't switch in the first place.
example if you have black-black, white-red and red-white, switch to white-white, red-black and black- red, or vice-versa. Another guy also had this problem and it fixed it for him too.
example if you have black-black, white-red and red-white, switch to white-white, red-black and black- red, or vice-versa. Another guy also had this problem and it fixed it for him too.
I have always run my white-white and reversed the red and blacks. I kinda always thought thats what you were supposed to do even though the CC instructions tell you can reverse any two wires.
Wow...another thing to try :roll:
Wow...another thing to try :roll:
Nah, any combo. The insulation on the Razor are all 3 clear, on the Lehner all 3 blue. Swapping the wires around can't hurt, even pulling them apart and plugging them back in might clear up an intermittent.
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