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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I have a dumb question. Would I get any benefit from a mousse can pipe/muffler running the RPM's that I'd be in for 3D, or will this only be a benefit in the higher RPM range? I have an OS .25 FP on a Mini 3D, and was thinking about using a mousse can muffler, or even a Kentucky mousse can pipe. Would this be worth the time and money?[/b]
 

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I'd be worth a try.... If you get the header tunned right, you can get both a boost in power and excellent throttle transition... But the needles become a little harder to set.
 

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Them Kentucky Mousse Cans are sweet if you don't want to hassle with rounding up all the stuff you need to build one. If you already have a header, and have hair (I don't!) enough to buy mousse (maybe Mrs RazorBack has some???) they are still a lot of fiddling. You can just slap the KMC on there and go, and it has some adjustment I'm pretty sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I broke down and bought a can of mousse last night. I think that I'm going to give it a shot. If nothing else, I should be stylish for a little while! :lol: I can always change it back if it doesn't work out.
 

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You might also try contacting Dave McDonald. He's been running some MCP's on a TopCap and says he likes it.
 

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whats the kentucky mouse can? I have a 91 fx im thinking about trying and building a beer bottle muffler for and have never heard of the kentucky muffler....also does anyone have any links for building the beer bottle mufflers? the older link for the mousse cans is gone now
 

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lol i can see that.

nvm found a link over on rcu that worked
 

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There's a thread somewhere here on the site where I posted "plans" to make a kentucky mousse can muffler for a .28 to .40 size two stroke.

The can's do wonders for your transition...helps a little bit on the top end as well.

It's not that hard to setup, and the transition is like.....instantaneous. And, I think they sound better than a stock muffler.

my two cents.

I'll check tomorrow, see if I can find my plans....
 

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so im kinda confused now......I did as one link said and cut 1.75 off the header and jb welded it to the beer bottle.......should I have just slid the header into the bottle?

Or will I connec the header to the piece of tubing jb welded into the bottle?

Also Im planning on using a bud light aluminum bottle with 5/16 stinger for my 91 fx, and same bottle with 1/4" stinger for my 46 fx but will it be too big?
 

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anyone tell me if Im doing it correctly by cutting a piece of the header and installing it into the can? then connecting that to the header pipe with the silicone sleeve?
 

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I've always cut an inch to an inch and a half off the header and JB welded it into the mousse can. Then used the rubber coupler to join the can to the header. Never had any problems with this setup.
 

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Sounds like we need a MCP build thread!
 

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Back Slider said:
I've always cut an inch to an inch and a half off the header and JB welded it into the mousse can. Then used the rubber coupler to join the can to the header. Never had any problems with this setup.
see thats how I did mine but it souned like in the threads they thought there was a better way where you would insert the header into the can a ways
 

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p3ripperfw said:
Back Slider said:
I've always cut an inch to an inch and a half off the header and JB welded it into the mousse can. Then used the rubber coupler to join the can to the header. Never had any problems with this setup.
see thats how I did mine but it souned like in the threads they thought there was a better way where you would insert the header into the can a ways
As I recall, I believe thats what McDDD found when he built a couple of different kinds. I don't think its a make or break decision.
 

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I'm doing the same thing, except I always cut off 2" of the stock header to JB Weld into the can. How much you cut off doesn't really matter since the header usually gets restored to the original length after they are joined with the silicone coupler.

On nearly all of my MCPs the header stub only goes into the can about 1/8". This dimension doesn't seem to be critical at all.

On a 25 size engine a 1.5" x 5.5" can works pretty good. The larger 1.75" can won't let a 25 get on the pipe.

On a 36 to 46 size engine a 1.75 x 6.5" works good. A 2" can won't let the engine get on the pipe, and a 1.5" can makes the needle valve setting erratic.

I'm still searching for a good MCP setup for a 60. The closest I got was with a Bud Bottle on a TT Pro 61, but it still had some mid-range throttling problems.

A 2" x 10" can seems to work good on a 90. But the stock header length is too long and causes mid-range throttling problems. It seems that the shorter the header, the better the engine ran and throttled. I've never reached the "too short" point yet. I suspect that a Bud Bottle is the right size for a 90, but I haven't tinkered enough with it to find out for sure.

Another thing I've discovered is that where you place the muffler pressure tap affects the mid-range mixture. Placing the tap in the mounting flange of the header causes the mid-range to go rich compared to placing the tap in the can.

Getting a big power boost is pretty easy with nearly any MCP setup. But getting perfect throttling from a MCP can be very frustrating at times.

When a MCP is tweaked right, it results in a engine with considerably more power, and throttling characteristics that rival an electric motor. And that's what makes it worth the time and effort to tinker with MCPs.
 

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McDDD said:
I'm doing the same thing, except I always cut off 2" of the stock header to JB Weld into the can. How much you cut off doesn't really matter since the header usually gets restored to the original length after they are joined with the silicone coupler.

On nearly all of my MCPs the header stub only goes into the can about 1/8". This dimension doesn't seem to be critical at all.

On a 25 size engine a 1.5" x 5.5" can works pretty good. The larger 1.75" can won't let a 25 get on the pipe.

On a 36 to 46 size engine a 1.75 x 6.5" works good. A 2" can won't let the engine get on the pipe, and a 1.5" can makes the needle valve setting erratic.

I'm still searching for a good MCP setup for a 60. The closest I got was with a Bud Bottle on a TT Pro 61, but it still had some mid-range throttling problems.

A 2" x 10" can seems to work good on a 90. But the stock header length is too long and causes mid-range throttling problems. It seems that the shorter the header, the better the engine ran and throttled. I've never reached the "too short" point yet. I suspect that a Bud Bottle is the right size for a 90, but I haven't tinkered enough with it to find out for sure.

Another thing I've discovered is that where you place the muffler pressure tap affects the mid-range mixture. Placing the tap in the mounting flange of the header causes the mid-range to go rich compared to placing the tap in the can.

Getting a big power boost is pretty easy with nearly any MCP setup. But getting perfect throttling from a MCP can be very frustrating at times.

When a MCP is tweaked right, it results in a engine with considerably more power, and throttling characteristics that rival an electric motor. And that's what makes it worth the time and effort to tinker with MCPs.
coo thanks for the response...I am going to use the bud light bottle on a 91 fx.....and may or may not build one for an os 46fx...Ive got a tower muffler on it now but would definately like the linear throttle on it
 

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McDDD said:
Another thing I've discovered is that where you place the muffler pressure tap affects the mid-range mixture. Placing the tap in the mounting flange of the header causes the mid-range to go rich compared to placing the tap in the can.
Really...

I put mine on the can and it makes the mid-range kind of difficult to adjust. Its like you can put it the high speed needle anywhere you want....

Someone told me its because there was not enough pressure in the can to keep the tank pressure up....and that I should have put it on the manifold.

Don't know...? A lot of art in these hand made mousse-cans.
 

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holy crap this thing woke up the 91. I cant believe how much improvement it made. I had trouble with this engine forever and couldnt even make it keep running even after I had replaced the needle valve assembly....took it out of the plane and it ran like a champ... come to find out it was all stemming from the engine being inverted. Well on the stock muffler I was with a 14x6 apc prop and 15% fuel I was getting 10,400 rmp.....put the moose can on and with a little tweaking the tach was showing 12000.

seems a little extreme but it sure sounds like I picked that much up it screams on this prop now. I think I will be able to pull a 15x4 or 15x6 prop easily with atleast 11,000. transition was flawless and it would idle for minutes on end and you could go over to the motor and hit the throttle and it would imediately transition to full with no hesitation.

I found out one problem I was having originally I had put a piece of brass fuel tubing as the pressure nipple in the neck of the bottle and exhaust pressure was flooding the engine...put the original pressure nipple in and it was perfect.

Im sold it was amazing the difference
 
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