My guess it's that it is pulling too much out of the pack. Try a smaller prop or bigger (higher discharge) pack. Could be the ESC too. What ESC and packs are you running ?
Motor cuts out?
My Himaxx has adopted a real bad habit of cutting out at power.
I've flown dozens of flights, and it has just begun this. It is a 2015-4100. I flew it mostly with a GWS/E-Flite gear and recently changed to the Himaxx. I'm at 6.60:1 ratio. I have always flown a 12x6 prop.
First off, I pulled the gear box apart and cleaned it up, then put a drop of teflon lube into each ball bearing. I put it back together, then tried it again wit h the same results.
I'm now charging cells, to see if the batteries are just at a low charge, but I doubt it.
What should the unloaded voltage of a 3S LiPo be?
Next up, what is making it quit? Is there some drag in the box that makes the current higher? If so, what the fuck good is it? I'm gonna dig out the E-Flite box and try that. If the E-Flite box swap eliminates the problem, I might have to burn something down, as this box wasn't exactly free, you know.
Anyway, enough of venting. Somebody give me some advoice on what to look for in this situation. I'don't have an amp meter, but just a volt meter.
If need be, should I go to a smaller prop (11x4?), perhaps changing to APC to gain back some pull?
Help me Bros!
I've flown dozens of flights, and it has just begun this. It is a 2015-4100. I flew it mostly with a GWS/E-Flite gear and recently changed to the Himaxx. I'm at 6.60:1 ratio. I have always flown a 12x6 prop.
First off, I pulled the gear box apart and cleaned it up, then put a drop of teflon lube into each ball bearing. I put it back together, then tried it again wit h the same results.
I'm now charging cells, to see if the batteries are just at a low charge, but I doubt it.
What should the unloaded voltage of a 3S LiPo be?
Next up, what is making it quit? Is there some drag in the box that makes the current higher? If so, what the fuck good is it? I'm gonna dig out the E-Flite box and try that. If the E-Flite box swap eliminates the problem, I might have to burn something down, as this box wasn't exactly free, you know.
Anyway, enough of venting. Somebody give me some advoice on what to look for in this situation. I'don't have an amp meter, but just a volt meter.
If need be, should I go to a smaller prop (11x4?), perhaps changing to APC to gain back some pull?
Help me Bros!
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Do you have your ESC programmed to Soft Cutoff 9v? Hard cutoff can give you fits.
12x6 E-Flite prop and two different packs. One is a Kokam 1500 3S, and the second is a Tanic 830 3S. The ESC is a CC P-10. All have dozens of flights on them, in three sepearte planes. All are rated at 10 amps continuous power.
If I stay at low power, like 1/4 to 1/3, I can fly all I want. Punch to full, and I get about 6 or 8 seconds of power, then a clean cut off.
I agree, something is causing the ESC to cut. Either current overload (pulling too much amperage) or it somehow senses the battery is low on juice (voltage cut off).
If a fully charged pack (full voltage) does not fix this, then it has to be a current cut off, right?
Any information on what the unloaded voltage should be on a 3S pack? I'm guessing 12+ volts...
Thanks for popping in Ulf, I really appreciate it. I suck at these things...
If I stay at low power, like 1/4 to 1/3, I can fly all I want. Punch to full, and I get about 6 or 8 seconds of power, then a clean cut off.
I agree, something is causing the ESC to cut. Either current overload (pulling too much amperage) or it somehow senses the battery is low on juice (voltage cut off).
If a fully charged pack (full voltage) does not fix this, then it has to be a current cut off, right?
Any information on what the unloaded voltage should be on a 3S pack? I'm guessing 12+ volts...
Thanks for popping in Ulf, I really appreciate it. I suck at these things...
My 3 cell lipos are usually 11.3v when I put them on the charger....."peak" at 12.6
I am pretty sure it's the ESC. Too much amperage at WOT. Try a Phoenix 25 or prop down.
I can trim a prop down to 11.5 inches and try. Why would that not show up before now? Like I said several dozens of flights... I've ordered an 11 inch prop already to try.
As for cut off, the stock configuration is on the ESC with the following changes: Cut off voltage was set for a 3S LiPo (option 4, I think). The brake was shut off. That's all I recall changing.
As for cut off, the stock configuration is on the ESC with the following changes: Cut off voltage was set for a 3S LiPo (option 4, I think). The brake was shut off. That's all I recall changing.
If you switch it to soft cutoff....it'll just govern the power down a little instead of cutting out. You just can't run hard cutoff on 3D planes.
How many amps are you pulling at full throttle, with that configuration ?
Didn't you say you changed the gear box ?TailTwister said:I can trim a prop down to 11.5 inches and try. Why would that not show up before now? Like I said several dozens of flights... I've ordered an 11 inch prop already to try.
As for cut off, the stock configuration is on the ESC with the following changes: Cut off voltage was set for a 3S LiPo (option 4, I think). The brake was shut off. That's all I recall changing.
Without a Whattmeter, these things can drive you crazy. Since you have no idea how many amps you are drawing, try a few things.
Go to a lighter prop, like a GWS 11X4.7 and see it that solves it. You are drawing too many amps, you just have no way of knowing if it's too many for the pack, too many for the ESC, or what. I would stay away from APC props if you are cutting out, they draw a lot more amps than a GWS.
Set your LVC to 7.2V and just see if that solves the problem. If it does, then you are drawing to many amps from your pack and dropping the voltage too low.
While you are programming your LVC, see what your "Over Current Sensitivity" or what ever they call it is set on. If it is "Very Sensitive" or what ever, you might bump it up a notch or 2.
If you can set up to read your voltage under load with your voltmeter, you might be able to see how low it's getting. With a Whattmeter, you can watch the voltage vs amps and see how well your pack delivers. I don't like to see less than 10.5V or so at 10C, the Tanics should hold 10.3V at 12C. But 12C on a 830 pack is still less than 10A, I'll bet you are drawing more than 10A.
I tend to agree with Ulf. The CC P10 is gonna be pretty much at it's limits on a 12X6. It might just be breaking down from the strain. I too flew a CC P10 on a 4100 for a long time. Then one day it crapped out (I had just swapped out to a Razor 350, but they are fairly closely matched motors).
Go to a lighter prop, like a GWS 11X4.7 and see it that solves it. You are drawing too many amps, you just have no way of knowing if it's too many for the pack, too many for the ESC, or what. I would stay away from APC props if you are cutting out, they draw a lot more amps than a GWS.
Set your LVC to 7.2V and just see if that solves the problem. If it does, then you are drawing to many amps from your pack and dropping the voltage too low.
While you are programming your LVC, see what your "Over Current Sensitivity" or what ever they call it is set on. If it is "Very Sensitive" or what ever, you might bump it up a notch or 2.
If you can set up to read your voltage under load with your voltmeter, you might be able to see how low it's getting. With a Whattmeter, you can watch the voltage vs amps and see how well your pack delivers. I don't like to see less than 10.5V or so at 10C, the Tanics should hold 10.3V at 12C. But 12C on a 830 pack is still less than 10A, I'll bet you are drawing more than 10A.
I tend to agree with Ulf. The CC P10 is gonna be pretty much at it's limits on a 12X6. It might just be breaking down from the strain. I too flew a CC P10 on a 4100 for a long time. Then one day it crapped out (I had just swapped out to a Razor 350, but they are fairly closely matched motors).
The CC P10 is default setting to hard cutoff. Not to beat it to death....but the soft cut would solve things. Ask me how I know.As for cut off, the stock configuration is on the ESC with the following changes: Cut off voltage was set for a 3S LiPo (option 4, I think). The brake was shut off. That's all I recall changing
Also if you have been running the Himax motor for a while.. they do tend to heat up quite a bit... it may be that the magnetism isn't what it used to be.. so the windings will pull more amps as well...
Those new Maxx boxes tend to clamp the motor pretty tight sometimes.. I don't know if it is possible to do.. but if it is too tight, it may be squeezing the can and causing some skewing of the stator... don't know about that... Just a thought...
Those new Maxx boxes tend to clamp the motor pretty tight sometimes.. I don't know if it is possible to do.. but if it is too tight, it may be squeezing the can and causing some skewing of the stator... don't know about that... Just a thought...
Dave has a point. I did read a post someplace where a guy was getting some binding off the Himax from clamping it.
And a loss of magnetism will cause the amp draw to skyrocket, but from what I read it's really hard to demag a Himax, not saying that isn't the case here. Just another thing you can't measure without a Whattmeter..
And a loss of magnetism will cause the amp draw to skyrocket, but from what I read it's really hard to demag a Himax, not saying that isn't the case here. Just another thing you can't measure without a Whattmeter..
I have about the same configuration as you do excepct I have a CC P25 and my setup was over draining the batteries. 
Checked it with Astroflight watt meter and it came to be about 13 amps with a 12x6 SF APC. :shock: That is to much for both the battery packs and the speed control. I know you can't use GWS props with this adapter, try using a 11x3.8 with the 5.3 gear ratio, it worked for me. Just tried this today and although it isn't as much power as the 12x6SF APC prop it's a close second. Hope this helps. 8)
Checked it with Astroflight watt meter and it came to be about 13 amps with a 12x6 SF APC. :shock: That is to much for both the battery packs and the speed control. I know you can't use GWS props with this adapter, try using a 11x3.8 with the 5.3 gear ratio, it worked for me. Just tried this today and although it isn't as much power as the 12x6SF APC prop it's a close second. Hope this helps. 8)I'll do the program changes, and see what happens.
The set up is said to be below 10 amps, on all components.
Yes, new gear box, and only perhaps 4 flights. Not much full power time at all, as I usually fly in close quarters. I really think that's what is going on here, I'm trying to find my old gear box.
The mount could be too tight, I'll back off of the clamping a hair.
the Tanic just came off the charger, 12.2V unloaded.
HEAT? No, this motor has never felt what I'd call hot.
BRB, gonna go run up the motor on a 12.2 V Tanic with the motor clamp a little less tight.. After that, I'm going to program.
The set up is said to be below 10 amps, on all components.
Yes, new gear box, and only perhaps 4 flights. Not much full power time at all, as I usually fly in close quarters. I really think that's what is going on here, I'm trying to find my old gear box.
The mount could be too tight, I'll back off of the clamping a hair.
the Tanic just came off the charger, 12.2V unloaded.
HEAT? No, this motor has never felt what I'd call hot.
BRB, gonna go run up the motor on a 12.2 V Tanic with the motor clamp a little less tight.. After that, I'm going to program.
OK, I took just a bit of tension from the mount clamp, and fired up the newly charged pack.
Same deal, 6 or 8 seconds of power, then cut.
I can't get the ESC into program mode. I'll keep trying...
After that, I'm gonna shave a prop down to 11 and go again.
Same deal, 6 or 8 seconds of power, then cut.
I can't get the ESC into program mode. I'll keep trying...
After that, I'm gonna shave a prop down to 11 and go again.
The pack should be 12.6V hot off the charger.
If Matt was drawing 13A with his set up, that's over 15C on the 830 pack. You might simply have a shot pack from over stressing it. Or the ESC might be feeling the pain as well.
And I bet people that were reporting 10A weren't using an APC 12X6SF, maybe a GWS 12X6 SF. I know the Razor will draw 12A+ on a GWS 12X6SF, it'd probably draw 15 on a APC 12X6 SF.
Have you always been using the APC props? Or did you just start running them when you got the Himax box??
If Matt was drawing 13A with his set up, that's over 15C on the 830 pack. You might simply have a shot pack from over stressing it. Or the ESC might be feeling the pain as well.
And I bet people that were reporting 10A weren't using an APC 12X6SF, maybe a GWS 12X6 SF. I know the Razor will draw 12A+ on a GWS 12X6SF, it'd probably draw 15 on a APC 12X6 SF.
Have you always been using the APC props? Or did you just start running them when you got the Himax box??
I just ordered a couple APCs to try. All this time it is a GWS or E-Flite prop.
Also, this happens with the Kokam 1500 3S too.
I still can't get the CC into program mode. Maybe it's done. I'll contact CC.
Also, this happens with the Kokam 1500 3S too.
I still can't get the CC into program mode. Maybe it's done. I'll contact CC.
Go to castlecreations.com and click on documents. They have the entire instruction manual there for all their ESC's on Acrobat. The exact same one you get in the box. Just have to read the instructions....it's a series of throttle stick movements and beeps from the ESC to get into programming mode. I believe the cutoff type is the second to last option...so you'll have to go through a few steps...only takes a few minutes and you'll be happy with the result. My Himax 2015-4100 won't even throttle up on a kokam 1500, or Etec high performance 1200 10c pack on hard cutoff. Took me forever to figure it out.
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
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