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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got mine today, here is a sneek peak of the parts.

Looks awesome so far, going to make sure i fully understand how everything fits in my head before i start adding glue 8)

The only thing that worries me is now there are 2 Addendums to keep track of. I will have to be careful.

This is going to be FUN!

Here are some sneek peaks at the parts.
 

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Subscribed!!! :tu:
 

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Ohhhh.....

Now I really want MINE!!! :tu: :rockoncool: :yes:

Damn mail over the border takes forever :dead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The first part of the build involves tapering the doublers to fit properly with the tube, so everything can remain square.

After trying a couple different methods... I decided to use some 150 grit off of a roll of stickback sandpaper from my great planes bar sander wrapped around the tube to get the proper bevel.

I just made sure everything was square, and did it with firm even pressure on the tube covered with sticky sandpaper using it to get the proper bevel.

Just sand a bit.... check fit, sand more check fit. trial and error is about the only way i can see to get this right, just don't take off to much material.

you can see below.

Will do more with this tomarrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The wrapping tube in sandpaper method turned out very well. the tube fits perfectly in the slots sanded for it and lines up great. I recommend that method to anyone doing it.

I also laminated the ply to the motor mount block and installed the tube at the same time, which made it easy with wieght and gorilla glue.

Im starting the wing now. Have the spars shaped and sandwiched, and now taking my time aligning the wing ribs, which is a little difficult because of the phenolic.

It's coming together though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also note, i used scrap 1/2" square balsa between the root ribs in a clamp to keep them square and the proper distance apart until i get everything pinned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
She is coming along well. I found it a bit difficult to get the wing tube in the ribs without cracking them or twisting them. took alot of patience and alot of fine sanding after adding the ply reinforcing rings to the ribs.

From here on out, the wing builds basically like any other mojo. Build it as one piece, then cut them apart after finishing.

Now i need to reinforce the antirotation pins with the supplied ply, then add my top and remaining spars.

This is a fun build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Still going... This shows how i capped the phenolic. I didn't feel i had enough room in the end of the phenolic to use a dowel like the plans say, so this is my solution. Judging it against the tube, it seems to be a perfect fit.
 

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DsWright said:
The wrapping tube in sandpaper method turned out very well. the tube fits perfectly in the slots sanded for it and lines up great. I recommend that method to anyone doing it.

I also laminated the ply to the motor mount block and installed the tube at the same time, which made it easy with wieght and gorilla glue.

Im starting the wing now. Have the spars shaped and sandwiched, and now taking my time aligning the wing ribs, which is a little difficult because of the phenolic.

It's coming together though.
I just finished the 40 size with removeable wing and did the same thing with the ply. I found later that it would have been better to wait. It will be harder to get the fuse centered between the ply doulblers. I had to shim the fuse under the wax paper to get everything centered. It will still be ok, but for anyone else planning the plug in wing build, resist the urge to glue the ply doublers until the rest of the fuse is built
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
what exactly did you shim? on mine the diecut fuse pieces are the exact thickness of my completed ply/tube assembly which is dead nuts on 1/2 inch. appears to me i can put the tube assembly right where it goes and build the fuse. there something else im missing?
 

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:rockoncool: :drink: :tu:
 

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Looking closer at your pics the 60 is a little different than the 40. On the 40 the balsa block between the ply doublers is the same thickness as the rest of the fuse and the ply doublers stick out wider. The balsa block on the 40 also has notches cut into it for building the rest of the fuse to it.

I ASSumed the 40 and 60 would be the same. My bad :oops:

BTW I like your idea to use the 1/2" block between the root ribs and clamped to keep everything square, wish I had gotten that idea a week ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Forgot to post more pics before i went to work.

The center and leading edge sheeting had a couple suprises hidden for me... I should have noticed but didn't until i already had the LE sheeting glued in place on one side of the wing. The front tabs for bolting the wing together can interfere with the sheeting process. I had to trim up with an exacto a slot where the tabs stuck out and reinforce the joint from behind. turned out ok, but not as good as i liked. I should have been paying attention.

Same thing with the center sheeting. I had to cut out and reinforce the spot at the TE of the wing where the tabs for bolting stick up and when you trim leave nothing to stick the sheeting to in that spot.

Easy fix though in both spots. just added a small piece of 1/4" stock under the spots for a solid mounting spot. Would have turned out better had i done a better test fitting before i stuck it on :oops: Then i could have contoured it to the space it needed to fill much better :oops:

will post more pics tonight. Wing is mostly finished. Gotta cut my hatches and finish a little cap stripping and it's ready to seperate, trim and cap the ends. will probably finish the wing tonight or tomarrow. then start the fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the wings mostly done. Have to cut hatches and do some finish sanding. But they are dead nuts square, straight, and no gaps!

WOOHOO!

I also have a pic showing where i had issues with the LE sheeting. you can see where i had to cut out a piece in a hurry to get it to wrap properly.
 

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Looking good!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok Wings are done.... Just need to sand for covering and cut hatches... will do that later.

On to the fuse.

Some fitting will be required here as again the tabs for the wing bolts are interfereing with the machined parts, but not that big of a deal. Just have to trim down the area behind the wing bolt mounts then drill it through again..... will provide pics of my solution.

This type of fuse has some bonuses over the standard Mojo.

it's all one piece and you can cover the fuse as 1 piece and hide the tube under the covering since it's all flush.

Much easier to cover.

Much easier to make repairs when the inevitable happens and it gets dorked.

Pmed pauly with a question i had. You can see in the pics how the fuse is built flat on the board.... but i don't see a way to add the Landing gear block for final assembly after everything is together.....

Anyway, here is how it's coming.
 

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On the landing gear block, you can just cut the tines off one side of the block.... All the force is front to back anyway... You could even glue the tines back on after you slide it in for asthetics if you really want to....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I will see how solid it is once i get it ready for final assembly. will probably be fine just cutting them off.

Will get most of the fuse layed out and pinned/glued tomarrow night if i can. Want to take my time on the area with the ply wing bolt mounts to make sure i do it better than i did on the wing. This time i can plan ahead instead of not paying attention to what im doing 8)
 
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