[3Dreaming]

You could also move the servos in the tail forward one bay to help with CG.

 

[Straightup]

Nice work
4.5 lb isn't terrible for a 40 slab. I revitalized the famous Gator Skin Chakk last summer and it came out a couple of oz. heavier than that and everyone still had a blast with it at last years Ottumwa ProBro.
For Lipo batteries, some people think Thunder Power is overpriced for what you get, but I really like them and I buy all mine on the 50% off black Friday sale they have every year. The sale the price is comparable to all other brands pricing. All my batts in the last 5 year have been Thunder Power and they're light and perform great for me.
I used some Hobby King Zippy compact batts for a project a few years back also because they were the only ones that had that size in the MAH I wanted so I tried 6 of them and they are working great also, but I go easy on my batteries!!

 

[gregoryda]

You could also move the servos in the tail forward one bay to help with CG.

Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. I think moving the motor forward would be less work, but who knows.

 

[gregoryda]

Nice work
4.5 lb isn't terrible for a 40 slab. I revitalized the famous Gator Skin Chakk last summer and it came out a couple of oz. heavier than that and everyone still had a blast with it at last years Ottumwa ProBro.
For Lipo batteries, some people think Thunder Power is overpriced for what you get, but I really like them and I buy all mine on the 50% off black Friday sale they have every year. The sale the price is comparable to all other brands pricing. All my batts in the last 5 year have been Thunder Power and they're light and perform great for me.
I used some Hobby King Zippy compact batts for a project a few years back also because they were the only ones that had that size in the MAH I wanted so I tried 6 of them and they are working great also, but I go easy on my batteries!!

Thanks, I’ll be looking for TT Lipos sales on Black Friday. I just placed an order for some Glacier Lipos. I’ve used them in the past and they seemed on par with GenAce.

 

[gregoryda]

I’m thinking 13-4 props for the G32 on 4s, but I think Gus recommended a 14-7. Wouldn’t a 4 pitch have more pull, but slower flight? Do you all like APC, or wooden e-props?

 

[joebob]

So far, the bats I've got from RCBattery.com have been good, and are priced great. Haven't compared the weights, and there are probably lighter ones out there, but I've been happy with them in my Timber X.

 

[McDDD]

I’m thinking 13-4 props for the G32 on 4s, but I think Gus recommended a 14-7. Wouldn’t a 4 pitch have more pull, but slower flight? Do you all like APC, or wooden e-props?

You are making the false assumption that the G32 will spin the 13x4 at a much higher RPM than the 14x7 prop. It won't because three phase electric motors don't work that way.

 

[gregoryda]

McDDD, Yep, it’s been awhile since I’ve gone through all this stuff. I had it all ass backwards, thanks for pointing that out to me.
Lower pitch gives you less speed, and larger prop gives you more thrust. In the case of the G32 on 4s, I guess I’ll try a 14x5 and 14-6 that I have on hand and use a watt meter to see how how many amps and watts I’m getting. I expect it to be high. I only have a 85A ESC so I don’t want to over load it or the motor.

 

[gregoryda]

For e-power are you all using wood props (I have a 14-6 xoar, and a 14-5 jxf), or do you use apc-e props (13-4 is the largest I have on hand)?

 

[sparkplug]

This is interesting,one day i may be trying a el 40. So many ways to go,but i think 3s for 40 planes,then using 2 3s batts for 60 size planes would give the most use of batts. Do i be on track or missed the best way. Gregoryda, check with wattmeter and go fly,try props and see whats best. Some times you have to use what you got till the mail comes. Best props break the easiest,worst last forever like a out of round tire.

 

[sparkplug]

If need,move the motor forward to get the balance,start a bit nose heavy then back up. I been there also.

 

[gregoryda]

Thanks Spark plug, I already moved the motor from the rear of the jaws to the front. I can now balance the cg at 4.5” and move it back once I get used to how it flys. I think it’s a little tail heavy due to the full size servos in it and my e-setup weighs less then the glow setup that was on it. I may fill in the jaws behind the motor with balsa so I have more area to Velcro the battery on. I was initially thinking 3s, but the Mojo is on the porky side compared to Doug’s Slick design. So I’m going with 4s since most folks on here recommended that setup.

 

[McDDD]

In the case of the G32 on 4s, I guess I’ll try a 14x5 and 14-6 that I have on hand and use a watt meter to see how how many amps and watts I’m getting. I expect it to be high. I only have a 85A ESC so I don’t want to over load it or the motor.

The wattmeter is the real answer to finding the best prop. 🏆 🏆 🏆 🏆

 

[WoodPilot]

I’d move the engine out as far as you need to along with the esc and lipo to get the cg before I added weight but I wouldn’t have the mount any closer to the tip of the nose than 1/2”. That’s just my personal thought. I’d rather use stand offs/spacers to get the motor pushed out a little rather than move the mount way out on the end of the nose.
But moving the motor out that far has a negative effect in that it basically adds to the nose moment (the length from center of lift to the prop). A longer nose moment will detract from pitch authority as well as rudder authority when tumbling and pinwheels and such. But so would a chunk of lead hung way out on the nose.
The good news is you shouldn’t need to move it out too far on a mojo. They CG pretty good even electric. Mine always did, anyway.
If it was built heavy in tbe tail or the servos are on the heavy side I’d say it’s worth it to move the tail servos up one bay rather than add weight or push the motor forward too far. It’s almost a requirement on a primo.

As far as lipo brands go, I’ve had the most luck and consistency over the years with the regular blue label hobbyking lipos. Recently I’ve tried some Admiral brand pack from motionrc and I’ve been impressed so far. But time will tell how they hold up.

 

[gregoryda]

I’d move the engine out as far as you need to along with the esc and lipo to get the cg before I added weight but I wouldn’t have the mount any closer to the tip of the nose than 1/2”. That’s just my personal thought. I’d rather use stand offs/spacers to get the motor pushed out a little rather than move the mount way out on the end of the nose.
But moving the motor out that far has a negative effect in that it basically adds to the nose moment (the length from center of lift to the prop). A longer nose moment will detract from pitch authority as well as rudder authority when tumbling and pinwheels and such. But so would a chunk of lead hung way out on the nose.
The good news is you shouldn’t need to move it out too far on a mojo. They CG pretty good even electric. Mine always did, anyway.
If it was built heavy in tbe tail or the servos are on the heavy side I’d say it’s worth it to move the tail servos up one bay rather than add weight or push the motor forward too far. It’s almost a requirement on a primo.

As far as lipo brands go, I’ve had the most luck and consistency over the years with the regular blue label hobbyking lipos. Recently I’ve tried some Admiral brand pack from motionrc and I’ve been impressed so far. But time will tell how they hold up.

Thanks for the good info. I have already moved the motor forward. The mount is exacty 1/2” from the front of the nose and puts the back of the prop 1-3/4” in front of the nose vs. about 1/2” where I previously had it mounted. I’ll look into moving the tail servos if I’m not happy with the way it flys.

 

[WoodPilot]

If I remember right my last Ejo40 with a G32 and 80amp esc on 4s 3300 did need an oz or two. Somehow two 3s 2200 were lighter when I tried 6s setup to get more oomph. I was never satisfied with electric.

6s

4s

 

[sparkplug]

Nitro gets in the blood,it ant easy or clean,just long lasting blast after blast. Yep,you good on mojos to Woodpilot,fun to watch it. Got looking at my packs,my best ones are the flat,stack ones. Like poptarts stacked laid on top of each other,with clear covering , may be better than the round cells,seems you could stuff more in there being flat.

 

[gregoryda]

Never satisfied with electric, what didn’t you like, the length short flight times? If mine flys 1/2 as good as yours I’ll be a happy camper. My old ass thumbs will never be able to keep up with most of the ProBros here. Great flying my friend!

 

[sparkplug]

My fingers are old to,but still learning some. Other than short flight times el ok,shure easy. Maybe i miss the sound,or smell. At the seff flying event last year i watched three days of best el planes do there thing,just not the same,but i come from drag and round track cars racing. May just be the sound,hell,i like the smell of nitro alot,and smoke trails in the sky. Jets not my thing,had enought fuel for a lifetime. But,a overpowered nitro mojo being beat up by a great pilot gives me shivers,to quote others,a 60 mojo with 120ax makes them giggle. I know,before you guys beat me up,theres better planes out there. So,any vids out there of over powerd mojos being beat up,bet one of them old nash flyins got one. Be nice,just my thoughts,i could be wrong.

 

[Straightup]

To your wood or plastic propeller question on E props, I'm using plastic or composite for 13 inch or under. For E props larger than that, I highly recommend staying with the wood props, as the plastic ones get flexy and can cavitate. I like Xoar, Sail or even the Hobby King E wood ones are working good for me.