Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. I think moving the motor forward would be less work, but who knows.You could also move the servos in the tail forward one bay to help with CG.
Thanks, I’ll be looking for TT Lipos sales on Black Friday. I just placed an order for some Glacier Lipos. I’ve used them in the past and they seemed on par with GenAce.Nice work
4.5 lb isn't terrible for a 40 slab. I revitalized the famous Gator Skin Chakk last summer and it came out a couple of oz. heavier than that and everyone still had a blast with it at last years Ottumwa ProBro.
For Lipo batteries, some people think Thunder Power is overpriced for what you get, but I really like them and I buy all mine on the 50% off black Friday sale they have every year. The sale the price is comparable to all other brands pricing. All my batts in the last 5 year have been Thunder Power and they're light and perform great for me.
I used some Hobby King Zippy compact batts for a project a few years back also because they were the only ones that had that size in the MAH I wanted so I tried 6 of them and they are working great also, but I go easy on my batteries!!
You are making the false assumption that the G32 will spin the 13x4 at a much higher RPM than the 14x7 prop. It won't because three phase electric motors don't work that way.I’m thinking 13-4 props for the G32 on 4s, but I think Gus recommended a 14-7. Wouldn’t a 4 pitch have more pull, but slower flight? Do you all like APC, or wooden e-props?
The wattmeter is the real answer to finding the best prop. 🏆 🏆 🏆 🏆In the case of the G32 on 4s, I guess I’ll try a 14x5 and 14-6 that I have on hand and use a watt meter to see how how many amps and watts I’m getting. I expect it to be high. I only have a 85A ESC so I don’t want to over load it or the motor.
Thanks for the good info. I have already moved the motor forward. The mount is exacty 1/2” from the front of the nose and puts the back of the prop 1-3/4” in front of the nose vs. about 1/2” where I previously had it mounted. I’ll look into moving the tail servos if I’m not happy with the way it flys.I’d move the engine out as far as you need to along with the esc and lipo to get the cg before I added weight but I wouldn’t have the mount any closer to the tip of the nose than 1/2”. That’s just my personal thought. I’d rather use stand offs/spacers to get the motor pushed out a little rather than move the mount way out on the end of the nose.
But moving the motor out that far has a negative effect in that it basically adds to the nose moment (the length from center of lift to the prop). A longer nose moment will detract from pitch authority as well as rudder authority when tumbling and pinwheels and such. But so would a chunk of lead hung way out on the nose.
The good news is you shouldn’t need to move it out too far on a mojo. They CG pretty good even electric. Mine always did, anyway.
If it was built heavy in tbe tail or the servos are on the heavy side I’d say it’s worth it to move the tail servos up one bay rather than add weight or push the motor forward too far. It’s almost a requirement on a primo.
As far as lipo brands go, I’ve had the most luck and consistency over the years with the regular blue label hobbyking lipos. Recently I’ve tried some Admiral brand pack from motionrc and I’ve been impressed so far. But time will tell how they hold up.