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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i cracked up an ultra stick 60 today that I had an OS 90 on. I was hot-dogging for my girlfriend. hehe. I'm not too broken up about it, cause that plane was an underperformer, and also I got it for free after someone else crashed it.

so should I scale up a burrito for this powerplant, or design my own??!!

YOU CHOOSE!

-barrett
 

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Heck, get the OMP 65" Yak. It's got to be one of the best flying planes out right now. I was out this morning with mine and got it to do climbing upright and inverted flat spins, with a Magnum .91. My 3D skills are still very basic, but this plane will do it all, and then some.
 

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Is that an OS 90 4 stroke? If so I dont think you will be happy with the OMP 65" yak, if it's the 91 2 stroke it will be OK. Im in the same boat. I have an OS 91fx at home. Im hoping pauly's 60 size mojo might be the ticket over the winter. [/i]
 

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What is you're guys favorite wing attachment method? I've seen single tubes and double tubes... 1 screw in the back, screwed from the inside...

I'm just looking at options guys... I'm not thrilled with what I've seen to date.
 

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Yeah, the tabs on the TE of my Su-Do broke off lots of times.

Think about this...

A hatch in the right wing panel. Open the hatch to find two 1/4 x 20 nylon screws (one fore & one aft) that go through the ply wing root, fuse, and other ply wing root into a pair of blind nuts or threaded hardwood. They would need to be the kind of nylon bolt with an allen wrench to tighten. Just finger tight, then another 180 degrees, or so, to lock with a wrench.

Any good?
 

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The only problem I'd see with that is that the hatch would weaken the structure right where you needed it to be strong....

The Sud60 also had a bolt that passed thru the wing into the wing tube... I didn't really like that....

I suppose you need a wing tube... then anti rotation pins i.e. dowels or another smaller rod....

All you need after that is a way to keep the wings on the tube... not a lot of force trying to pull the wing off... The tube really takes all the heat.

This is why I want a one piece wing plane in this size... Not a really good way to attach a removable wing.
 

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I was thinking the bolts with a wing tube, and not instead. I guess I never said use a tube as well, did I? There could even be two smaller hatches, not any bigger than what is on a 40 size profile. I'm thinking just big enough to get in there with the bolts.

I'd hate to try and transport a one piece plane this big, so lets hear some ideas Bros...

How would you do a one piece removable wing on a profile?

Bungee cords???
 

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TailTwister said:
I'd hate to try and transport a one piece plane this big, so lets hear some ideas Bros...
Do what I did -- I built my house next to the flying field.

Then, when I moved, I got my self a hangar at the local flying field.

No need to transport my models at all :)

Of course the fact that I've been flying lots of 1/2A-sized ships and I have a pickup truck makes it all somewhat academic anyway :-(
 

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Well if I did it myself I would go for simplicity. a large wing tube (say 1") small hard points flush in the bottom of the wing and use 8-32 cap screws bolted straight in to the wing tube. You would have to obviously use anti rotation pins but if it's good enough for a 33% cap it's probably ok for a 7 lb fun fly. It would seem the real solution to me would be to design the fuselage so the wing can be built in 1 pc and inserted into the fuse, probably the lightest way to do it but getting the wing to be rigid to the fuse would be a bugga. maybe an interlock in the front and some sort of wing saddle built into the fuse. The wing could inset into the saddle so it would still look completely profileish and 1/4 - 20 nylon bolts could hold the wing onto the saddle beyond the fuse
 

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You could make the canopy removalbe like on a scale plane. You could bolt the wing down using 2 1/4-20 nylon bolts and then bolt the canopy back on. I would suspect that you would need to make a saddle for the wing 2 to 3 inches wide that ispermanently attached to the fuse. I would think you could make it look like a fairing. Might even want to add this saddle/faring to the canopy also. If you designed it right you could prabably make enough room in the lower saddle/faring to place the receiver and battery. sorry for ranbling , just an idea.......
 

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That's a good idea....

I'm just thinking that with a profile style fuse... I can't get away from using a wing tube....

How about this....... build a one piece wing with a verticle pocket at the tube. Build the tube into the wing. Setup the fuse with a saddle to hold the wing tube and a clamp that bolts over it. Put a dowel in the front and a nylon bolt in the back. Then use the removable canopy Kenny was talking about...

I'm sure I can incorporate a CF tube in here someplace!!
 

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I'm thinking of another ideal.... build the fuse with the CF tube down the center... The canopy section removed..... Built the wing with a plate that has a "u" shaped slot to fit the tube at the spar and another one half way down... Use a dowel in the front to locat the wing in the fuse. The wing halves will extend down and locate on the sides of the profile fuse...

Slip the wing on the CF shaft and put one nylon bolt in the back.

What do ya think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
to clarify: i was talking about a 90 TWO stroke.

I think I'll design/build/fly something in the 66-70" range, and shoot for like 7 pounds. got enough servos sitting around for a 4 aileron wing, annnd, im thinking something sukhoi-like in outline, perhaps. 2-piece wings on a tube, radio gear in the fuse, maybe make it a tapering profile (like 1.5" at the front and 3/8" at the tail) maybe sweep the wings forward, make it a pusher, maybe like a hybrid gas-electric setup, balloon tanks in the wing for helium, cigarette lighter sparker for a tailwheel, all-pink covering, camera payload, retracts,... ok some of that is bullshit, some might not be.

-barrett
 
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