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getting it strait

771 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  crazystix
Ive been to chicken to glue my own wings and stabs in so i let a friend glue two planes for be well the extreme stab is 1/4 inch out and the kantana is 1/2 enough you can see it by looking at it :cry: so how dos everybody get the wing parallel to the fuse anything debond epoxy
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When I'm fitting the wing and tail to the fus I first make sure the fus is perfectly vertical. I do this by placing it between a couple of pieces of 4" diameter aluminum bar stock I just happen to have laying around -- but you could use anything heavy that has sides which are square to their base.

Don't just assume the fus is square however, use a set-square to check.

Then I do a dry-run with the tail and wing -- putting them in position and measuring the distance from the tips to the surface of the *flat* building table or concrete floor I'm using.

Almost inevitably one end will be lower than the other so I cut some 3/8" balsa to length and prop it under the low-side until both ends are an equal height from the table/floor.

I then measure from the rear of each wing-tip to the rear-most tip of the fus so as to make sure the wing is square and not skewed (also check that it's properly centered length-wise at this point). Once I'm happy with this I then use a marker to draw a line on the wing along the side of the fus.

Do the same thing with the horizontal stab.

I'm assuming you've already covered everything so now you can cut just inside the lines you've marked and remove the film from this center-section in preparation for gluing.

You can then add your glue and reposition the wing and tail (do one at a time so you've got more time to reposition everything before the glue kicks).

Make sure you recheck the tip-to-table and tip-to-tail measurements after you've repositioned everything and before the glue goes off.

I prefer to use epoxy but others may opt to position everything first then wick in some CA -- whatever spins your wheels I guess.

Remember, getting it right the first time isn't hard if you work methodically and take it one step at a time.
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Yeah, xjet has a good way. Any way you can get it straight. I do prefer CA of the fit is good. I can promise it won't let go, I treat my planes worse than ANYONE!!! I bounce and bounce them, NEVER had the CA let go without breaking wood too. All wings will loosen up unless they are Swany designs, but with Epoxy the come loose too, and most guys will just wick in thin CA anyway.

As to fixing your problem, try heating it up. If he didn't get it glues really well, getting it hot may alow you to move it around, I've done that once with a Knife ARF. But nothing will "debond" it. In some cases you may have to live with it, but it doesn't sound like you can with that much out. You may have to cut it out, it'll be messy but at least it'll fly straight.
The best way I know of to get epoxy to turn loose is a pain but so far has worked well.

First cut loose any covering that's in the way where you can get to all sides of the glue joint.
Second get out the heat gun and start warming up all the wood around it.
It will take a while but eventually it will heat up and turn loose.
If you can't get it to heat up use a bit of water on the backside of the wood then apply the heat again. The heat will dry the wood out but hopefully you can get the water hot enough to loosen the epoxy.

Once you have your parts out let them cool then scrape/sand the epoxy off and you'll be ready to start again.
if i post pics of the tail looking down from the top could you tell if its to far out of alignment to fly as is it may not be as bad as i thought it was
If the tail is skewed, it won't fly right at all..when you pull up, it will roll in the direction it is skewed. You will end up getting frustrated, fighting the plane all the time, and having NO fun, if you don't fix it first. Ask me how I know :oops: .
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