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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I have most of my stuff now, but I'm waiting for a freakin' pinion gear for my motor. I've ordered one at the LHS, but it's been a while, and I'm thinking they can't get it. :cry:

What I'm looking for is a pinion for my Himaxx 2015-4100 to use the GWS "D" gearbox. What kind of gear is it, and where can I find one???

Thanks,
 

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I have a spare I can Priority mail to you.. PM me with your shipping address and I'll send it out tomorrow!
 

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Twister,

The other option is to buy a complete motor and gear box, that way you will have a spare spur and shaft, which you will need eventually anyway. the whole shootin match should be around $15.00. :D

Hope this helps
 

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The GWS "D" gearbox uses a 10-tooth pinion. www.allerc.com sells both the brass GWS pinion (which presses on) and a steel one which is a slip fit and must be loctite-ed.

As far as removing the pinions, get yourself a GWS micro gear puller. It's kind of cheesy-looking, but it works great for the press-on gears. I haven't had occasion to remove one of the glued-on ones yet, so I can't comment there.

Gary
 

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Yep allerc seems to always have the stuff for these gearboxes on hand. Everytime I make an order I throw in some shafts or spurs or pinions. A flying buddy bought the pinion puller so we'd have one..haven't had an occasion to use it yet, but I see brass on my spur gear, so something tells me it'll get used before long!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, it happened again. I orderd this gear like a week and a half ago, and the owner of the LHS calls me last night. "You want a what?". I tell him it's a GWS 10 tooth pinion gear from the 300 power system with a "D" ratio of 6.6 to 1. He then reads me the part numbers of 4 gears and asks me which I think it is. Mind you I'm in my truck, driving to work. Darn it, no GWS parts list in the truck, what was I thinking...

I told him forget it. I'll find something at allerc and get a couple of them there. I might also order a whole gearbox as a back-up.

Thanks to all who gave me information, and to Chuck for being willing to send me one of his spares.

That's what the Bros are about. Takin' care of our own...
 

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Call allerc and ask for Dave... He speaks the GWS lingo. My LHS guy is a super nice dude and will get anything I ask him to, but all the strange GWS stuff gets him confused as well. He doesn't mind if I buy the stuff online cause it confuses the heck out of him, that's how I ended up using the GWS DX style gearbox instead of the EPS C box like everybody else...

BTW..The GWS part number for the D pinion is EPS-9D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I usually go to the LHS first, and if I'm not happy with what they say, I'm online. I figured that it would be an easy find, but I guess it turned out to be more complex than I first thought. Now I have allerc to help out with the GWS stuff, and I'm happy with that.

I like my LHS and the two guys that run it (father and son). The Dad is a genius and can do lots of things that would normally end up back at a manufacturer. He knows tons of stuff.
 

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Chuck, tell me more about that special gear box. I have to call Dave today, and wonder if I should think about that box.
 

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Gordo..the DX box is kinda waddy lookin' compared to the EPS C style. It is a little lighter, and all DX's have ball bearings on the shaft. Some of the early EPS Cs tyle had bushings, but I think they are all dual BB now.

I wouldn't call it a special box..I didn't know what to get when I ordered from the LHS...I just told the guy I wanted one of thos D Gear Boxes. Well, the other style Gear Box is an EPS C and he knew I didn't want the "C" (I was very specific I wanted the D Gear...) so the closest thing he found was a DX with D Gear ratio. I didn't know there was 2 different styles of gearboxes when I ordered...

You can see how confusing this all is.. You can get an EPS C Gear Box with a D gear ratio, or you can ger a DX with a D ratio (or a C ratio...etc.)

99% of everybody uses the EPS C box. They are more compact than the waddy DX. The main advantage of the DX is it has a ring right at the rear to support the end of the motor can. If you go brushless, it makes for a very rigid support of the rear of the motor. On the EPS C box, the motor can isn't supported past about 1/2 way down the can. And that still works fine if you make sure to make a solid support, but if your motor moves just a little, you get into spur gear stripping problems. I've never replaced a spur on mine, and it has seen a LOT of runs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chuck-
I got the gear today, and it went on pretty easy. Thanks again for that.

I'm now having Phoenix 10 ESC problems. I set up the system as directed, and powered up the system. The motor ran in the correct direction, and seemed fine.

Next, I programmed the cut off voltage for the 3 cell LiPo pack (7.2 volts). That went OK too. I changed no other programs.

Now after I put the battery on the charger, I went to run the motor to see just how much pull it has, and I get nothing. All servos are moving, and the LED on the ESC is on. The instructions say that the ESC isn't recognizing the zero throttle position, and I have to re-start the system by unpluging the battery and pluging it back in. I did this and get nothing again. It worked fine the first time, and now I'm confused.

Any ideas from the E-gallery?
 

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I doubt it's your problem but I thought we needed the Phoenix 25. Could it be over-current protecting?

Truth is I'm just not willing to "learn" all the details like the others (Chucky for one), so I'm just asking guys like Bill "what should I get" and that's what I get! I like Bill's setup so I just bought what he had.

Thanks Chuck for the Info on the gears, I left my order as is, Dave at AlleRC said it's fine and I didn't really know what I wanted. That's got to be hard for these retailers, guys like me saying "Is this what I want?" LOL

Well, just about done with my bipe, and Bill has my eSledge ready too. Which would you guys do first? I've always wanted a bipe, but if it don't 3D like crazy it'll be a ceiling decoration ASAP!!!!
 

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Frank..all I can tell you is make sure the TX is on and throttle set to idle before you connect the battery or the ESC won't arm. Other than that... :?

Gordo...the CC P10 will work fine. I have the same motor, 3S lipo and gear ratio as TailTwister and I have countless flights on the CC P10. The thing is..according to MotoCalc or whatever, these things will draw like 12 amps. But that's static (plane held stationary and unable to unload) at full throttle. If the plane can move, you can't use full throttle for more than a couple of seconds (plane will just get too far away!) and the amps really drop off if the plane isn't held stationary. Also, the CC P10 is rated for bursts of 15 Amps, and bursts is about all the full throttle you'll ever need.

Couple that to the fact that unless you are running like a TP 3S 2100 pack, your batteries will never deliver 10 amps, anyway. So even though the "numbers" say the CC P10 is too small, real world experience shows that they are a dandy little ESC for this size motor.

But, when I bought a second (actually third, but that's a different story!) ESC I went ahead and got the CC P25. It weighs just a little more, and it was in stock. At the time, the CC P10 was out of stock waiting on the new version.

I think it's gonna be hard to out 3D an E Sledge. The bipes are cool, but I've never flown one. I have the plans, and OverSpray has been wanting one forever, so one of these days.. :)
 

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How are you connecting the motor to the ESC? Mine acted exactly the way you describe until I re-soldered the wires between the motor/ESC. At first I just twisted the wires together to check the motor direction, and the motor would do nothing. I had to solder the wires before I got any action at all from the motor. Apparent;y the controller is picky about the motor connection.....

Gary
 

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Gary..the ESC's are VERY picky about the connection between them and the motor. A lot of the "stuttering start" threads get resolved by making better connections. I like to solder my motor directly to the ESC, but I'm getting more set ups so I had to put a Deans connector in line on a couple so I could swap around. So far they seem to be OK....but a good motor to ESC connection is pretty important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My motor came with a set of 3 connectors. I soldered the connectors on the ESC, and pluged them in. There is heat shrink tubing over the solder joints and connectors so that they cannot touch and short out.

I'll unplug them and plug them back and try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, after trying really hard to understand, gritting my teeth, and swearing a lot, I gave up and e-mailed Castle Creations for help. They said that I seem to have a microprocessor failure. They are sending me a new ESC, and a address label (paid) for the exchange.

I can't think of a better way they could have handled this. The guy didn't even ask for a date from my receipt or anything.

Why can't they all be more like that. The only other time I've had a great experience like this was with Satn's Fibertech. I once called him regarding a cowl that had half a million pits in the primer coat. He offered me the same deal.

I wish GP and Horizon would learn from these guys...

Anyway, my Depron is at my friends house, and I'll have all the parts for a foamie soon.

I also saw a write up on the Cobra from HL. That seemed like a really good plane in the 12 ounce range. Anyone ever try one of these?
 

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Good service!!! My buddy just got a similar deal with Servo City. They sent the wrong Hitec tx (ppm instead of PCM) and they gave him an authorization # to ship it back FedEx and as soon as he shipped it they sent his new one. He had it in less than 48 hrs.

Trick RC did me the same as Castle on a speed controler once. They sent me the knew one and prepaid envelope to ship the old one back! I agree, not many out there like that!!!

My Bipe is almost done. Waiting on gearbox and battery from allErc. Can't wait. I put monofilament flying wires on it and man is it stiff. I wonder if a depron plane can be too stiff?
 
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