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ferroplane layout

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#1 ·
:rockon: been building them for years, no plans but decided to post layout if you guys wanna build one.

getting tired of shipping them, cost keeps rising and damaged deliveries keeping pace with rising costs.

here are measurements, I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone has.

feel free to build as many as you want.

anyone want to mass produce it, that's ok but throw me a fricken' bone if you make any money! :p

material list:

3 pc. 1/16x3x36

2 pc. 1/8x4x36

1 pc. 1/4x1/2x36 bass main spar (use balsa if .15 or less being used for power)

2 pc. 3/16x3/4 t.e.

1 pc. 1/4x36 l.e.

1 pc. 2" sq. 1/4" ply firewall

2 pc. 1/4x3-3/4 wing dowel

small piece 3/16x3/8 bass for servo rails and hatch mount

1 piece 3/16x2-1/4x4 for hatch

sig sh-628 1/2a strip aileron linkage

4 oz. hayes tank

costs less than 10 bucks for wood. tough. flies good.

edit; attached instructions a friend drew up!
 

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#2 ·
cut out fuse sides. stack sand to match them, drill wing dowel holes w/ sharpened brass tubing, lay them together with a square and transfer bulkhead locations to other side.

erect bulkheads. use firewall to square, scrap sheeting to get top flush w/ side.

glue 1 piece square oversize bottom sheeting, flush w/ 1 side, the make sure it's flush w/ front of bulkhead and glue rest to mae sure fuse doesn't rack.

c.a. firewall in flush w/ front, using scrap balsa to flush bottom w/ sides.
 

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#3 ·
draw centerlines on bulkheads, draw tail together aligning them by eye w/ c/l. draw 2 marks on sides 3" up from rear to locate stab saddle.

sheet fuse w/ 1/8 balsa, glue 1/16x1/4 strips around fuse openings. epoxy tri stock behind firewall.

sand it and cut hole in rear bulkhead to clear aileron horns.

this took me less that an hour from first post to now, as you can see from post times. yeah, I've built a few of these! :wink: usually about a 30 min. job for a fuse, but I had to take pictures, and I type slow!
 

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#4 ·
We all know you ripped poor old Hazel Sig off by blatantly turning the Kougar into the ferroplane so why should we throw you a bone? :p :D :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sounded good when I typed it anyways! :wink:
 
#6 ·
odds and ends. epoxy torque rods in, tape till dry, then double bevel. I use 3 ca hinges cut in half per side on ailerons.

cut front off rudder, flip and glue back on for the dorsal fin.

single bevel elevator and use monokote hinge.

stack ribs together, use back side of knife to push each down flat, and block sand to this shape.

same with rear ribs, taper back from 1/4 to 3/16". gives ribs just a little curve.

ca ribs and spars together, using a firewall to square up. cap trailing edge with 7/8" wide piece 1/16 balsa.
 

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#7 ·
flip wing over, cap bottom t.e. ca bottom le sheet to spar, leaving about 1/16 of spar exposed.

flip back over, hold down and wick thin ca around ribs and l.e.

plane and sand angle on le. check spar, lotta times it's a little taller than ribs and needs a little sanding.

run bead gorilla glue top of ribs except tip ribs, then ca top sheet to spar, leaving 1/16 exposed. spray with windex and sheet top center section while waiting for sheeting to curve.

flip wing with l.e. towards you, run bead medium ca along l.e. and press in place, thin ca tip ribs to sheet.

flip, add bottom sheet, capstrip. set right side up and weight till sheeting dries as it tends to bow up until wet sheet shrinks back down.

all that's left is trim off tips, cap with 1/8 balsa, and finish sand.

yeah, it's not a slab. but it builds as fast, is about as tough, and when it goes down the runway over 100 mph it pisses off the old farts about as bad! :lol:
 

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#9 ·
Pretty sweet!

I didn't read everything yet, but have you included dimensions to build one, or do I have to TLAR it?

Thanks!
 
#11 ·
shaggy; the dimensions are drawn on the wood in the first pic, although it came out hard to see. when enlarged you should be able to make it out. if you guys can't make it out, will draw with majik marker and re-post! nose 2" sq., 4" long. wing area 6", tail moment 12".

fuse bulkheads 2" wide, 2-1/2" tall.

rib fronts 1-3/4", rears 3".

bob; easier to just make new bass sparred wing. the balsa spar is usually ok unless you are kyron the yanker! :lol:
 
#12 ·
HA, I was just about to post that I found the pictures, haha

on image P1010075.JPG
 
#13 ·
here's a clearer pic of fuse dimensions.

what's the block of foam in the background and the skinny ply ribs for, wild fred??

the proto 40 size ferro, I made a foamcutter and am trying to learn how to use it, wanna do foam wings on it.

you can see my usual attention to detail and fanaticism for perfection in it's construction! :p
 

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#15 ·
dhooks said:
My question Wild Fred is this, why not just put a webra .50 on current ferroplane it would be faster then a bigger plane. :p
was gonna put the norvel 40 on it, but airfoil is about at max. gotta go laminar!

fuse will be 2" longer, laminar fuse, too. 3/16 airfoiled tail, i got idea how I wanna do it, it'll still look ferroplaney. will have gear, even got pylon wheels around here somewhere!
 

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#20 ·
been flying the beercat, that's the airfoil here.

beercat foam wing cores now avaliable! :p

on the ferroplane I prefer the norvel 25 bushing.

I've used the cox conquest 15, fox scneurle 15, mvvs 15, os 25, os 15, os 10, asp 12, cox medallion 15, td09, s.t. x-15 w/ full pipe, enya 15, all work well except the enya was a dog. used various others in diferent configurations, too.

guys in hudson stuck a webra 32 on 1 once. I wouldn't recommend it, but the airframe handled it.

you are only limited by what will balance. by the time you 25 it, you usually have to put battery in the tail. I'm sure it would hold a la40 w/ macpipe :shock: but that's about the weight limit with these.

new 1 will hold a standard 46, will be done soon.

new 1 should balance with 40 fine.
 
#24 ·
12 ribs per wing, i stack and sand them curved to 1/4 l.e. like pic further down, you can see me holding sanded stack of them.

my mistake, the layout pic here only has 1 set shown, i usually mark a 3" sheet at 1-3/4, 3-1/2, 5-1/4, 7, 10,13, 16" and draw vertical lines. mark front ribs every 1/2". mark 1st rear rib line at 1/2, 1/4, etc. 2nd reverse that: 1/4, 1/2, etc. draw lines, mark top of rear ribs; they alternate so you have to mark top so you can stack and sand. that makes 2 sets.
 
#26 ·
look at peice in very front of 1st pic, stab is 12" wide, fin is 4" tall on that 4" sheet. elevator is an inch wide, cut off from stab. angle front of stab, an inch taper. cut an angle on rudder 1.5" up from base, 1.5" back from front of top. flip cut off piece over, and glue to front of fin. cut little angle at lower rear of fin to clear elevator.
 
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