80 inch Profile
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a guy in our club has one with a big moki on it, and he is finally hovering! he tried and tried with his patty, but got the profile and is just starting to back up. You oughta really like it. I wouldn't necessarily use the big moki, an os 160, saito 180 or ys140 work fine. but hey, use what you got!!
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986 Posts
If you get a chance to get to Texarkana I will be bringing mine. I have a MDS 218.
I hope that you are doing the needed mods on yours, one of them is a MUST.
I was a little worried about the MDS while I was breaking it in as the 20oz tank only gave me a seven minute run and it was empty. I know three oz a minuteis expensive, but the real world sipping is ten minute flight is usually about half a tank.
MORE POWER
AARRRRHHH AARRRRHHHH AAARRRRRRHHHH
I hope that you are doing the needed mods on yours, one of them is a MUST.
I was a little worried about the MDS while I was breaking it in as the 20oz tank only gave me a seven minute run and it was empty. I know three oz a minuteis expensive, but the real world sipping is ten minute flight is usually about half a tank.
MORE POWER
AARRRRHHH AARRRRHHHH AAARRRRRRHHHH
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986 Posts
The main thing that HAS TO BE DONE is put flying wires on the tail. Ulf had a tail blow off on the maiden flight climb out on his, so I would not take a chance and made sure that I had them on mine.
The second mod is to increase the angle on the inboard edges of the elevators to allow the rudder more movement you then add a 2" piece of balsa to the ouboard edge of the elevator and it should be long enough to also be a counter ballance as well.
I was skeptical of the CG from the begining and with the 20" cord I knew that a very aerobatic plane would just not be able to do very much with a 25% of cord CG. The recommended cord was just not going to be where I started so instead of the 5" from lead edge I went to 30% (it flys and lands like a trainer on low rates) to start with and have experienced good hover ability with no noticable extreme pitch sensitivity. I am going to move it farther back as it has not balooning happening at landing and is still not doing a good flat spin. Until it gets touchy on the pitch I will keep moving the CG back.
A reminder to all:
The CG on a kit/arf is put there to make it easy for all kinds of pilots to be able to have a starting point and to help keep the manufacturer from being sued when someone that is not really ready for a very aerobatic airplane, that can easily do the moves, that is not forgiving.
I am getting off my soapbox now.
The second mod is to increase the angle on the inboard edges of the elevators to allow the rudder more movement you then add a 2" piece of balsa to the ouboard edge of the elevator and it should be long enough to also be a counter ballance as well.
I was skeptical of the CG from the begining and with the 20" cord I knew that a very aerobatic plane would just not be able to do very much with a 25% of cord CG. The recommended cord was just not going to be where I started so instead of the 5" from lead edge I went to 30% (it flys and lands like a trainer on low rates) to start with and have experienced good hover ability with no noticable extreme pitch sensitivity. I am going to move it farther back as it has not balooning happening at landing and is still not doing a good flat spin. Until it gets touchy on the pitch I will keep moving the CG back.
A reminder to all:
The CG on a kit/arf is put there to make it easy for all kinds of pilots to be able to have a starting point and to help keep the manufacturer from being sued when someone that is not really ready for a very aerobatic airplane, that can easily do the moves, that is not forgiving.
I am getting off my soapbox now.
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1,748 Posts
The Moki 2.1 is a beast, but has a large advantage over the Saito 180/YS 140. CHEAP FUEL. Moki's are designed to run on FAI (no nitro), 5% max. Much cheaper than feeding a big Saito or YS 20/20. My 1.80 Moki was a little easier to tune on 5% than FAI, but made outrageous power either way.dhooks said:
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14,323 Posts
This is a used plane so I think Ill fly it once an see how it does before I go cutting on it. Now if I can figure out where the moneys coming from for a motor an servos Ill be set. Anybody got about 500 bucks they want to invest? :idea:
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986 Posts
How did your bird fly? I hope that you were able to get the C/G back past 6" or so as it would have to be a dog on the spar (Aeroworks recommendation)
BTW my 2.18 MDS uses about 10oz's for a ten minute flight asd I am very seldom at full throttle.
Y'all taqke care Jim D
BTW my 2.18 MDS uses about 10oz's for a ten minute flight asd I am very seldom at full throttle.
Y'all taqke care Jim D
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10,174 Posts
Whats the deal, boted, cant find any Cardens for sale....or 5955s :rockon:capthis said:
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14,069 Posts
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Except for that G160, it kicks ass at 5000 Watts :twisted:capthis said:Hooks says big and electric and cheap should never be used in same sentence. Or in other words, large electric motors that are Cappy priced aren't any good much like Cappy himself!gus said:
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14,323 Posts
Man you know that isn't a 5k watt motor, just because you can prop it up an peg the throttle an hit 135 amps doesn't mean You should.gus said:Except for that G160, it kicks ass at 5000 Watts :twisted:capthis said:Hooks says big and electric and cheap should never be used in same sentence. Or in other words, large electric motors that are Cappy priced aren't any good much like Cappy himself!gus said:
Efficiency is horrible at that range .
In a non slab, non let me harrier around at 1/4 world that would be a 2500/3000 watt motor
My E experience has gotten. So much better since I've started propping motors in a more efficient range
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