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I'm using an Edge / Edge lite is the same if you want to save an ounce of weight. A Talon 90 would be great too.
I have been very happy with Castle - mostly because the ease of programming when using the Castle Link software.
All you have to do is plug your speedo into the USB port on your computer, select the settings and hit update - super fast and no more beeps and stick position baloney to set your ESC settings.
Gus and TriFlyer3D told me what settings to use and they've always worked perfect!
 

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The MoAss had that 100A ESC on it when I bought it from Gatorb8 when he went out. The Scorpion motor it had chucked the magnets and wrecked the windings, so I replaced with Motrolfly.
Since I don't really care about static amps on the ground, and the Talon doesn't have data logging, I just know it's under 90. LOL The whole system (motor, battery, and ESC) comes down no more than ballsack warm.
Maybe Cappy should test that out to see if it is in fact no more that ballsack warm. Seems like something he would like to do.
 
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I'm using an Edge / Edge lite is the same if you want to save an ounce of weight. A Talon 90 would be great too.
I have been very happy with Castle - mostly because the ease of programming when using the Castle Link software.
All you have to do is plug your speedo into the USB port on your computer, select the settings and hit update - super fast and no more beeps and stick position baloney to set your ESC settings.
Gus and TriFlyer3D told me what settings to use and they've always worked perfect!
Thanks for the info!
 

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I'm only buying Talons because of value and they have the best SBEC to power the servos. They come setup by default for what we do, but I do have the USB programmer if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
After seeing Straightup's mention of Sail props earlier, I decided to try them out. Price seems pretty good and they got good reviews on Amazon (didn't know Amazon carried them at the time). So I placed an order o their website for a couple of E props for the Potenza 60 and a 19x8 for my DLE35 on March 1. Finally got a shipping notification on March 7, delivery date of March 10. Checked USPS tracking yesterday and it was delivered.

To an address in Garden City, NY.

I live in Florida.

Can't figure out who screwed up. All correspondence from them have my address on it. Don't know if they sent the wrong tracking # or what.
 

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There's still a chance you might get the props. It's possible that the tracking number sticker came off and got stuck on a different package.
I once sold and shipped a radio where the tracking number sticker somehow ended up on a different package. USPS takes photos of the packages as they travel through the hubs, and the USPS lady was able to determine when and where the label got transferred to a different package, but not exactly how it happened. The USPS tracking later showed the other package had been delivered to its original destination because it was carrying my "stolen" tracking number. The buyer eventually got the radio a few days later, but it had both of us in a panic for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Talked to them today. The guy said he thinks he sent me the wrong tracking # and is supposed to be sending me the correct one. Haven't seen it yet, though. Not sure how that could happen since it appears all the emails are auto-generated. As long as they eventually show up I'll be happy.
 

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Was the correct tracking number still on the package of props? Or a different number?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Stil in the pipe. Haven't got the parts cut for the Mojo yet since I've been busy with other stuff. Got a couple of projects I need to get done before Mother's day, then hopefully I can jump back on it. I thought I had all the parts drawn out and ready for the CNC, but since I'm using a 12mm tube (cheaper from Aloft Hobbies), I need to go back and resize all the parts that touch the tube .
 

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Stil in the pipe. Haven't got the parts cut for the Mojo yet since I've been busy with other stuff. Got a couple of projects I need to get done before Mother's day, then hopefully I can jump back on it. I thought I had all the parts drawn out and ready for the CNC, but since I'm using a 12mm tube (cheaper from Aloft Hobbies), I need to go back and resize all the parts that touch the tube .
Man, that’s a good price they have on CF. I’ll go there for any future needs. I think 12mm is like 1/32” less than 1/2”, so that should work good. Not sure what ID Swanny used but Aloft’s are 10mm. I think some cF 12mm tubes have an ID of 8mm as well.
 

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Man, that’s a good price they have on CF. I’ll go there for any future needs. I think 12mm is like 1/32” less than 1/2”, so that should work good. Not sure what ID Swanny used but Aloft’s are 10mm. I think some cF 12mm tubes have an ID of 8mm as well.
You guys might want to look at Fly Market Kitemaking Supply . They’ve got filament wound epoxy fiberglass tubes at the best prices I’ve seen with reasonable shipping. Swanny‘s stuff used glass tubes. Carbon will work but shatter where glass flexes a bit.
 

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This is why FWET (filament wound epoxy tubes) fiberglass instead of carbon tubes. Carbon would snap or split lengthwise whereas this survived...
Just look at it.

Plant Monoplane Tree People in nature Land lot
 
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