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your 2 cents worth?

  • foam is for coolers. Get off my lawn!

    Votes: 4 21.1%
  • where does he come up with this stuff?

    Votes: 2 10.5%
  • gee, maybe foam is the future...

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • i got to try this technique. too easy.

    Votes: 1 5.3%
  • w.f.'s an asshole.

    Votes: 5 26.3%
  • even plug could make this light!

    Votes: 4 21.1%
  • how high will it go?

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • i want one!

    Votes: 3 15.8%

The Full Monty

6K views 85 replies 15 participants last post by  sparkplug 
#1 ·


pitts has the name python, sooo...

templates out of liteply on this. about the only thing it's good for :roll: . the wire slides better on it, and i'll probably cut a few of these.

suky outline so captits can't say it's a yak.

fuse is going to be 1-1/4 at mount, taper to 3/8 at tail. balsa longeron, never broke the cookeville fuse. plenty strong.

foiled ailerons.

40" span, 12" root chord, 9" tip chord.

skinny airfoil.

more features to come! :lol:
 

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#3 ·
fuse is 30". cut longerons 32" for runout, 1-1/2 tapering to 3/8. cut 2 of them.

pin to fuse for runners, and hotwire to shape. i coulda made a wedge shaped piece and got 2 fuses outa this... maybe next time.

slice fuse along lines, use skewer to spread poly thin as possible on both sides- EXCEPT where wing cutout hits longeron, that will be easier to remove later!

tape vertically 3 places, flip, tape bottom 5 or so places. tape seams to make sanding easier later. flip back over, tape seams and a couple more verticals.

go fishing till it dries! :lol:
 

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#6 ·
i sawed it out like this on my jigsaw to keep it square.

then poly glued 3/8 block in.

then epoxy mount in square.

just invented the pocket sling free battery mount.

ok, here's more- all is squared with right side of fuse. EXCEPT the fin, which will be aligned with left side.

spiral slipstream. 'nuff said?

yeah, wf is different.
 

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#8 ·
had to check my bean sprouts... i eat lot since hawaiian. store bought no flavor and way too expensive.

i got old spice container. buy mung beans at chinese store. put 2-3 layers in bottom, like popcorn. soak in water overnight. put in dark- i put in my spice cabinet so i don't forget about them. once a day, fill with water, swirl, dump. in 3-4 days you got beautiful sweet bean sprouts with flavor that cost you about 4 cents.

anyway, mark center of blanks. nominal is 2", but they vary up to 1/8. since 1 is clear side, other foil side down, i split difference and mark center. still gonna be more accurate than a balsa wing.

pin templates on, it is easier if you stack on other blank to cut them.
 

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#9 ·
since i made nice, smooth templates i cranked to 1.8 amps. cuts smooth as long as moving, cheap templates will snag and burn a dent if too high. it cut beautiful.

built in zipper, midpoint shifts forward toward tip, smooth cut.

yeah, tell me how balsa is better.

the airframe's basically done except building the ass outa balsa and cutting/facing ailerons. and i making/drinking homebrew today, baiting hooks, etc.

foam looking pretty good right now, betcha betcha...
 

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#14 ·
:lol: :lol: I voted for Plug.. "Even Plug Could Make This Light"

Plug's winning! :rockon:
 
#16 ·
sparkplug said:
What youall saying,its plug proof,could there be such a thing,id most likely add big heavy motor with to much kv,big pack and heavy servos.
Have you built your bow yet?
Got a charger with foam cutter setting?
Channeling wulfie here;

Chop,chop,round eye :D make fast.......
 
#18 ·
lay out ailerons. 3-1/2 root, 2-1/2 tip. fuse 1" wide so spaced them 2". after balsa aileron root caps on, will leave 3/8" space from fuse. use square to mark root.

the lines are drawn 1/8 forward and 3/16 back from the nominal dimension to account for facings.

slice along an angle to remove a wedge shape piece of foam.

it's easy to make a "catpiss style" aileron center section if you want- just slice off center, remove 1/8" of foam, glue back on t.e. after completed. just sayin'.

face with 1"x1/8" balsa. since angled, they will tend to slide on you so put a few pins to hold while taping. make sure line up foam straight with bottom of cap. i leave about 1/8 reveal to plane later, but straight. these don't warp so you may as well get them straight now.

note i only capped 1 side of wing; wf sez always angle splice spars! when dry will sand and cap other side to make a good solid t.e. spar outa the t.e. cap.
 

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#23 ·
Wild Fred said:
whittle off excess balsa and block sand. not going to cap end, it looks fine.

then went out back and picked tomatoes for chili tonight. :lol: so, how's the weather up north? :p
Still cold and no power.
 
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