Wild Fred laminar yak build thread

[Wild Fred]

Finally started it today.

radiused the front of ribs a little better. Took scrap 1/4" sq. and drew off flat side, radiused back with a more exponential radius. I'd like to thin the t.e. a little to allow use of 1/4" stick, but not enough to actually bother doing it! Might on future ones. used 1/16" sheet as I like it. no holes, will have to cut a couple in the center ribs to pass wires through though.

about drawing ribs; do yourself a favor and buy some micron pens at the craft store. you can see one in pic. very fine tip, best I've found for tracing patterns.

[Wild Fred]

here's plans.

-edit- this is the newest plans.

[Erik]

Ron,

I voted that I'd build it, but I'd also buy a kit should you decide to produce them. For those of us without a clue, can you explain why the laminar airfoil is something we want? I always follow your build threads and this one will be no different. Thanks for enlightening the masses.

[bigfoot]

I'm defiantly considering building it but I am also interested in that airfoil?
Also what are the spec's WS,engine size?as designed not that I haven't changed such things to suit my own desires before.Hell I might just size it so I can use one of my os 48'surpass on it

[Wild Fred]

the laminar has better transition through stall without a noticeable stall break. it also produces less lift. that means you can harrier a sub 4 lb. plane at low angles of attack without it flying in and out of stall and rocking. very solid in harrier. Is a little weird in transition, a little like a foamy, when nosed up, you need to power up or it starts sinking. When I went from an omp 540 to a burrito I noticed that effect a little, it seems that the further back your thickest part of wing is, the more pronounced the effect is, and I really noticed it most on the foamy horizon ultimate, which is one of the few flat plate airfoil things I've flown.

size is about usual. I made less taper as I like constant chord performance but taper wing looks. So I put just enough taper to maintain appearance.

ailerons a little smaller than conventional, as I always have more aileron than I need on everything else, so why invite flutter? especially on this thing, because at full throttle it'll be faster than most conventional planes- until it flutters and blows up! still a lotta sq. in. of surface.

already one of these flying, one of bigmac's students built one w/ an os70 4-stroke on it, video on bigmac's page. you can see transition, and also one time he transitioned into harrier without throttling up, and it sank into a landing- without a noticeable stall break or wobble. is under brent flying scratch built yak on bigmac's video page.

This is still largely untried, and will be several before I get it exactly how I want, but it shows a lotta promise. moments right, airfoil right, just minor tweaking, fit and finish stuff. wing t.e., probably have to shim stab opening as when fuse routed you lose a little, stuff like that.

bigmac and dbag have this basic airframe/tail, but with the primo wing ribs as I didn't want them to guinea pig the untried design, and pauly sells the ribsets. It flies good with that wing. again, video on bob's page.

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/rmclarty/ under video section.

[WessCo]

Cool!

[dhooks]

Where is the I need to get Ron to build me one option?

[Wild Fred]

in your checkbook?

[Wild Fred]

I decided not to be lazy and tapered ribs for 1/4" t.e. coulda left stock, used 3/8x1/4 t.e., and made tapered ailerons like stock mojo, but easier to do this and use my usual 1/4" flat plate ailerons. Just took flexible straightedge and drew new lines.

ribs are complete. note servo rail locations; I usually like as short a pushrod as possible, but liked the idea of using the front servo mount as a spar doubler so moved servos forward a couple inches.

here's the laminated mount parts. The core is cut wrong, though; I needed to space 1-3/8 for saito, but mistakenly wound up w/ 1-5/8. will cut a new core, but you get the idea, right?

[p3ripperfw]

id try one.....looks good keep it up

[blackbeer]

What a neat idea Wild Fred. I played with the laminar airfoil back when I was in high school, say 64 or so. I was a scratch building maniac in those days. Lock myself away and start making dust. Anyway I was hung up on what made the P-51 so damn good. And it was mostly that airfoil. Got the center of preassure back for less drag and all that good stuff. So I started drawing some up, ribs that is, and really got some good flying planes. Even did a TD-20 powered low wing, twin ruddered, aileron only, hot-dogger that actually was a blast to fly. Thats as in rubber band powered esc. with single channel radio. I might give this a wheral. It would be nice to get a ball park list of building material, as in number of sheets of what size balsa/light ply, just so when I'm browsing through the wood stash at the LHS I'll have some idea of what I want. First though, I have to finish the two I have started

Tom

[clarkscap]

Thanks for the scratch plans!! I'm going to try a electric conversion...and removable wing version ....I noticed Paul put the wing rib sets for the Primo on his site! Might do a Primo wing and a lam flo wing to see how they compare

Thanks again, I'll do a thread on the electric and wing mods if they work out!

[Big Mac]

Thanks for the scratch plans!! I'm going to try a electric conversion...and removable wing version ....I noticed Paul put the wing rib sets for the Primo on his site! Might do a Primo wing and a lam flo wing to see how they compare

Thanks again, I'll do a thread on the electric and wing mods if they work out!

Now that would be a direct and interesting comparison.

I think it would make an ideal electric conversion. With less drag, smaller motors and engines can be used.

Keep in mind that Brent was only off the buddy cord for a few months when I shot this vid. He is turning out to be a good pilot, but that also says a lot for this plane when someone can advance the way he has.

Remember all the arguing a while back about wing thickness. I think the debate should be about over. Thin is in. Spaz should feel good. Now to get that scratch built Saber done.

[clarkscap]

It's something I've wanted to try..kinda a test bed for wing design..I'll order the extra phonlic tube from TNT and really I can have 2 different planes or more in one! I really like the looks of this fuse and tail so It's up on the build board..

Plotted the plans out today...this thing is impressive to see full size....great job Ron !!!!!

The red green show rocks btw...

[Wild Fred]

Thanks to wagas, too, for the cadwork!

[Wild Fred]

What a neat idea Wild Fred. I played with the laminar airfoil back when I was in high school, say 64 or so. I was a scratch building maniac in those days. Lock myself away and start making dust. Anyway I was hung up on what made the P-51 so damn good. And it was mostly that airfoil. Got the center of preassure back for less drag and all that good stuff. So I started drawing some up, ribs that is, and really got some good flying planes. Even did a TD-20 powered low wing, twin ruddered, aileron only, hot-dogger that actually was a blast to fly. Thats as in rubber band powered esc. with single channel radio. I might give this a wheral. It would be nice to get a ball park list of building material, as in number of sheets of what size balsa/light ply, just so when I'm browsing through the wood stash at the LHS I'll have some idea of what I want. First though, I have to finish the two I have started

Tom

interesting reading! no materials list yet, but several sheets 1/16", 1 sheet 1/16x4x48, 2-1/4 sq. x48, a dozen or two 1/4 sq.x36, a dozen 1/4x1/2x36, small piece 3/8 sheet for mount core, some 1/16 ply for mount core, 12" 3/8 maple, 1 c.f. tube, several pieces 1/8x1/2 for fuse infill, 2 or so 1/4" tri stock. i usuallyn use at wing and fuse t.e., and bevel everything else out of 1/4x1/2. if you prefer, get more tristock and do conventionally. no lite ply, that stuff sucks! that oughta just about do it.

[Big Mac]

What a neat idea Wild Fred. I played with the laminar airfoil back when I was in high school, say 64 or so. I was a scratch building maniac in those days. Lock myself away and start making dust. Anyway I was hung up on what made the P-51 so damn good. And it was mostly that airfoil. Got the center of preassure back for less drag and all that good stuff. So I started drawing some up, ribs that is, and really got some good flying planes. Even did a TD-20 powered low wing, twin ruddered, aileron only, hot-dogger that actually was a blast to fly. Thats as in rubber band powered esc. with single channel radio. I might give this a wheral. It would be nice to get a ball park list of building material, as in number of sheets of what size balsa/light ply, just so when I'm browsing through the wood stash at the LHS I'll have some idea of what I want. First though, I have to finish the two I have started

Tom

interesting reading! no materials list yet, but several sheets 1/16", 1 sheet 1/16x4x48, 2-1/4 sq. x48, a dozen or two 1/4 sq.x36, a dozen 1/4x1/2x36, small piece 3/8 sheet for mount core, some 1/16 ply for mount core, 12" 3/8 maple, 1 c.f. tube, several pieces 1/8x1/2 for fuse infill, 2 or so 1/4" tri stock. i usuallyn use at wing and fuse t.e., and bevel everything else out of 1/4x1/2. if you prefer, get more tristock and do conventionally. no lite ply, that stuff sucks! that oughta just about do it.

Don't you have a thread here somewhere on how to make the mount?

[blackbeer]

Thanks for the list. Just what I wanted to know. Need to stock up.

Tom

[WessCo]

cheaper to order from LoneStar Balsa or Balsa USA than it is to buy form the LHS. You'd be surprised at how much $30 or $40 worth of balsa, hardwood and ply that you can get when ordering, versus how much you can get at a hobby shop.

[Wild Fred]

got a little done. mount complete, 1.7 oz. used 3/8 sq. rails, and is narrower than plans so drew new lines there and for rib t.e. mod. realized that if I'd made mount with 3/8x1/2 bearers, it woulda fit plans perfect, will use that size on next one.

stripped out some wood, and grooving center sticks for tube. I like 1/4x1/2 sticks for fuse outlines w/ 1/2" thick finished fuse. took my detail carver and cut channel.

took scrap tube piece, wrapped sandpaper around it, and finish sanded groove. got tube glued to mount, too.