motors

[sparkplug]

So,who knows,are motors about the same,mostly talking about small el motors,3s for 1 pound or so planes. Or do you get what you pay for or just a little bit more for a lot more. and how do you know how much load motor can take if no info on it,keep adding prop till it smokes.

[gus]

3S could be good for 1 or 2 or 3# depending on the size of the actual motor.
1100-1250 KV on 3S, 800-900 KV on 4S ...
250 watts to 300 watts per pound is Bro powa.

You should list what plane you are considering and I bet someone here will have the correct answer so you don’t have to guess and try different motor/prop/batt/ESC combinations.

[sparkplug]

I was looklng for general info,like you can tell brand a makes more power than b. Have some garett motors,are they junk or ok. So many on ebay,i get the kv,but some dont list watts.You are right,if i pick one,or give weight of plane you guys could show the way.Amazing the power such little motors make.

[c/f]

There is absolutely no power in a motor, its a gearbox with a means to the end to turn a propeller, BATTERIES are the Horspower.

Battery weight penalty is #1 place to start for a plane requirement, secondary the motor need only handle the watts capable of that battery weight choice.

Motors are iron ore which handle watts. The E purists have a formula a bit conservative on how many watts per gram of motor.
Motor advertising is as bad as servo specs. The Quadcopter boyz think 20gram motors are 250watts capable because they have a 1000Watt quad and use a 150gram battery lots wrong with this example.

[gus]

And there’s no substitute for iron when it comes to electric motors.
To give you an idea, we have a 700 HP GE motor here at work that weighs about 7000 lbs, we also have a 700 HP Thrige/Unicore thats “only” 4600 lbs. Wanna bet which one usually gives us issues? The lightweight one.

[sparkplug]

There be no truth out there,so tested cheap motor ln shop. On 3s batt,2 of them,motor starts up ok,runs up 1/2 ok,then at 3/4 stops with screach sound,lower stick then speed up again till 3/4,get screach again. think my 1 oz 30amp controler giving up at 10amp. motor bit bigger than 202 has,dont seem to have as much power. Same prop.

[Wild Fred]

get a watt meter.

make sure timing is set right on control.

several things will cause the problem you describing. like guys "slinging magnets"- i never slung one, then you find guys were overamping so bad the magnet glue melted.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-180 ... s_products

saw these while looking up that- neat!https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt60-charged-discharged-battery-indicator-caps-5-pairs.html

[doinkedit]

W.f. Got it
Try changing the timing to HIGH

[sparkplug]

Have no info on motor or controller,but a 30 amp unit should melt the motor. So,how does one change the timeing,you would think a printed sheet would come with these.Buy from cheapest,guess that be what i got,20.00 of somewhat.

[sparkplug]

UT o,i get the timing of motor,and think you guys right. Now,with no info on this,plug scratching ass,the controller is the key,so got to research it,feel this going down hill,tic tic required.No big deal,i shall win,maybe.

[Wild Fred]

the info on line. count the beeps. hk, you go to one of the tabs and that'll show you the downloads. throttle stick high/low, count beeps, not too hard.

on an aside, the chick in doinkedit's avatar posted a pic of her now in same shirt. you can see the whole boob now... gravity is a cruel mistress.

[sparkplug]

Fixed it. Changed ebc to better one,fixed but still bit lower in power compared to 202 motor.That was my question,yes there be ,good,better,best in motors,and bit bigger dont mean shit.So,i put a lot bigger motor,with 40amp bec,more than needed,added weight but all i had.This motor 4 times bigger,only 2 times power. What did plug learn,alot,missing with foam plane.ASK for recommended motor,they may look the same,but ant.202 recommended stuff works great,i would add bit more battery.Weight adds up quicky. Just putting carbon rod in wrong place makes problems.Plug better off with plans,but it was fun,sure hope it flys.

[sparkplug]

Time is tuff on all,cant tell it to the young,but we all learn about it,big umms when young,hangers when old.

[McDDD]

Just in case you skimmed over this important advice from WF, here it is again.....

get a watt meter.

And again......
get a watt meter.

And one more time......
get a watt meter.

POP QUIZ!
Q: What is the most important tool for electric power flyers to have on hand?

A: Watt meter.

[Wild Fred]

a watt meter is a necessity, i don't care what mcddd sez...

[sparkplug]

I get it,a watt meter tells somewhat what power should be making,but,with no info on motor,still in dark.Did read some on motors,see the need of meter,have new,never used meter.As you push motor,by adding prop,watts go up,using smallest ,lightest motor pushed hard gives best flight,till smoke starts. And the truth not in them,motor makers,and no standards to lead us. Trile by fire,with watt meter,checking for heat,sounds alot like glow,only there be 1000s of motors. You pay your money and try,or ask the bros,what be best. Just like glow,some motors make more power per ounce,a watt meter and tac shows us.Just like glow,if in doubt,put bigger on it. But plug dont know nought,sure help to have spec.

[johnnashville]

get a watt meter.


several things will cause the problem you describing. like guys "slinging magnets"- i never slung one, then you find guys were overamping so bad the magnet glue melted.

I always run my motors till the magnets just start to sling , then back off a few clicks.
If it's not burring, it's not cooking

[dhooks]

I get it,a watt meter tells somewhat what power should be making

No,. It will tell you exactly what power the motor is drawing, ever single time


,but,with no info on motor,still in dark.

Dont buy a motor with no info,. Unless your fluent enough in E to figure out some basics.



.Did read some on motors,see the need of meter,have new,never used meter.

Always use a meter, always!




As you push motor,by adding prop,watts go up,using smallest ,lightest motor pushed hard gives best flight,till smoke starts.

Not really ,. Power in an Power out are 2 different things,. So please , efficiency is a thing.


And the truth not in them,motor makers,and no standards to lead us.

Are you buying motors from hai wing Wong out if a trash can!? Don't buy a motor that doesn't give you any info.

Trile by fire,with watt meter,checking for heat,sounds alot like glow,only there be 1000s of motors. You pay your money and try,or ask the bros,what be best.

Yes use a water meter,. Stop buying dumpster fire motors. Unless you have a 100 different sizes of airplanes you probably only need tobworry about 3 or 4 of those. Get a motor someone recommended,. With info on it,. An still use a water meter



Just like glow,some motors make more power per ounce,a watt meter and tac shows us.

You know which ones make more power per weight? Quality motors with good magnets an a good stator,. They will all have info on battery an prop set up when you buy them,. Guess what ,. Still check a watt meter


Just like glow,if in doubt,put bigger on it. But plug dont know nought,sure help to have spec.


Just no again,. Always use the correct size. All planes fly better when they aren't carrying random extra weight. I know this is a shocker but most of your quality sellers will have a recommendation on motors based on plane weight an type of power level you want to have. An they will suggest a prop size. Still put a watt meter on it.


Or you the type of guy that drives around with no gas guage in your car?


My head hurts ;/

[Wild Fred]

get a watt meter.


several things will cause the problem you describing. like guys "slinging magnets"- i never slung one, then you find guys were overamping so bad the magnet glue melted.

I always run my motors till the magnets just start to sling , then back off a few clicks.
If it's not burring, it's not cooking

oh, so you're the guy responsible for the cali warning label, "caution, magnets may sling"..."blades are sharp"... "brushless motor magnet glue has been known to cause cancer"... gotta love cali.


i believe there's only 1 warning label... "caution, being a dumbass will cause evolution to strike you down, no matter how much socialist money is spent on legislation to protect your stupid ass"... but then, i think de-evolution is real.


on a funny note, now i qualify for food stamps, so i got them asap to get my 45 years worth of paying in back. turns out the soda pop lobby has convinced the powers that be that soda is neither a food or a drug, so it's unregulated by the fda. good enough. but- i can buy soda pop on my food stamps- even though it's not a food and is in fact taxable because of that. but when i buy them with food stamps, i get them tax free.... fucking rotten. is it a food or not? is it taxable or not? is it regulated or not? guess it depends on what congressmen they are buying lunch for.

[wyo69cowboy]

3S could be good for 1 or 2 or 3# depending on the size of the actual motor.
1100-1250 KV on 3S, 800-900 KV on 4S ...
250 watts to 300 watts per pound is Bro powa.

You should list what plane you are considering and I bet someone here will have the correct answer so you don’t have to guess and try different motor/prop/batt/ESC combinations.

This^ (and 600ish kv on 5S; 500ish kv on 6S, etc) I've used as low as 1000kv on 3S, but usually that will require a bigger prop. Same with 4S: 8-900kv good, under 800kv needs bigger prop. There's been lots of discussion around here over the years on "2-stroke" vs "4-stroke" feel on an system. In general, if you use lower voltage/lower kv, you have to swing a bigger prop to get the power. Higher voltage/higher kv gives more rpm using a smaller prop, giving a more "2-stroke" feel.

There's a lot more to it than that, but the advice here on using a watt meter and what kv to use depending on cell count is sound. And, the plane manufacturers recommendation on motor is always a good starting point....