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Tubes, Fiberglass vs Carbon

3K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  Straightup 
#1 ·
I have seen several post lately on this issue and just thought I would chime in and give my opinion.
Fiberglass tubes are more durable and a little heavier than carbon. Fiberglass is what has typically been used on most bro approved slabs. When I designed the 46" UL Slick I decided to use carbon because I was trying to shave off every ounce possible. I have used Carbon in both of my Slick designs and it has worked very well with no failures that I know of.
I think on any light weight designs carbon is the way to go. If you break a carbon tube in a lightweight profile it will more than likely be destroyed beyond repair. As far as Mojo's, Primo's and any other more standard weight slabs, I agree that fiberglass is the way to go.
 
#2 ·
thanks Doug--good to hear from you and my slick is still the slickest and sickest plane at the park.

Now we just need someone to weigh in with where to find .505 tubes and whatever for things being currently kitted at a good price. Has anyone found a good deal lately?
 
#4 ·
gus said:
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/epoxy_tubing/144
Thanks! I saw that site in the other thread, but looked for "fiberglass" instead of "epoxy". That's a good price, but the shipping is (understandably) twice the item price. I'm going to look around, but might have to just eat it.
 
#5 ·
guckrob said:
gus said:
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/epoxy_tubing/144
Thanks! I saw that site in the other thread, but looked for "fiberglass" instead of "epoxy". That's a good price, but the shipping is (understandably) twice the item price. I'm going to look around, but might have to just eat it.
Think ahead if you decide to order. I notice the shipping is the same for multiple tubes or one. I tried three tubes and shipping didn't change. Still flat 15 bucks.
 
#6 ·
Zombie [2point0 said:
":2c9k4me3]
guckrob said:
gus said:
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/epoxy_tubing/144
Thanks! I saw that site in the other thread, but looked for "fiberglass" instead of "epoxy". That's a good price, but the shipping is (understandably) twice the item price. I'm going to look around, but might have to just eat it.
Think ahead if you decide to order. I notice the shipping is the same for multiple tubes or one. I tried three tubes and shipping didn't change. Still flat 15 bucks.
ya I noticed that, too. now if I could just predict what 3 or 4 kits I am going to build from plans or short kits soon. I think I know at least a couple.
 
#7 ·
I wonder if you could use bamboo as an alternative. Light and strong i would think.
 
#9 ·
guckrob said:
Zombie [2point0 said:
":1zpmpewe]
guckrob said:
gus said:
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/epoxy_tubing/144
Thanks! I saw that site in the other thread, but looked for "fiberglass" instead of "epoxy". That's a good price, but the shipping is (understandably) twice the item price. I'm going to look around, but might have to just eat it.
Think ahead if you decide to order. I notice the shipping is the same for multiple tubes or one. I tried three tubes and shipping didn't change. Still flat 15 bucks.
ya I noticed that, too. now if I could just predict what 3 or 4 kits I am going to build from plans or short kits soon. I think I know at least a couple.
Don't mark my words, but I heard primos will be next on the chopping block! Great timing for this subject :rockon:
 
#10 ·
I agree with cf in the smaller birds. I put a cf tube in my Skeeter 36 that I built.
 

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#13 ·
sparkplug said:
good looking bird,much better than i can do.how much does it weigh.
Thanks sparkplug.
As pictured there with no gear it is 10.95 oz.
I'm not the lightest builder out there, but I think that is in the ballpark of the 36" wingspan birds.
A quick guesstimate of the gear weight puts it at around 20 oz RTF wight.
Gear:
Savox 1/2 oz weight digital servo's - metal gear (4).
Graupner RX
ST .10 Motor.
Castle Talon 35 Speedo
 
#16 ·
Thanks guys :D
When I built it I put a Mojo style top and canopy on it - almost identical to my Mojo 25 in my avitar. The original Skeeter is a lot more straight. So I call it a MoSkeeter
 
#17 ·
Straightup said:
Thanks guys :D
When I built it I put a Mojo style top and canopy on it - almost identical to my Mojo 25 in my avitar. The original Skeeter is a lot more straight. So I call it a MoSkeeter
Sure is pretty! Thanks for tip. Got a Skeeter sitting here to build at some point. May put a Mojo top on mine too.
 
#21 ·
I just finished a MoAss60,if I would have used a 1/2" carbon tube it wouldn't be as tail heavy as with the .602 fiberglass.Also the 1/2" tube makes it much easier to build,no cutting in the larger fiberglass.It just balances at 7-1/4" with a DLE20,2500 a123 in the leading edge.
My next 60 kit from Sam will have a 1/2" carbon,just to see what the difference is.
 
#23 ·
You have polnt,it adds up,i be learning,thats what gets one on small planes,tubes do make strong,glass for bigger planes gives flex thats needed,so much mass got to give or snap. Wf 2 piece tail give good place to snap,carbon might work well if joint not to strong,save few oz maybe.
 
#25 ·
closetguy said:
I just finished a MoAss60,if I would have used a 1/2" carbon tube it wouldn't be as tail heavy as with the .602 fiberglass.Also the 1/2" tube makes it much easier to build,no cutting in the larger fiberglass.It just balances at 7-1/4" with a DLE20,2500 a123 in the leading edge.
My next 60 kit from Sam will have a 1/2" carbon,just to see what the difference is.
:thinking: :thinking: :thinking: I'd keep it Fiberglass as designed.. Fiberglass on this size bird is MUCH more forgiving. CF will shatter on a minor dork, then you'll have lots of repairs - if it's repairable.

Look at Steener's avitar, the plane is almost bend double - that would have never happened with CF.
https://www.theprofilebrotherhood.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=348
 
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