Help with mojo 40

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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 7:47 pm

Well this plane is discontinued anyway but honestly with proper build techniques like measure twice cut and glue once were used this wouldn't have happened.

Typically after you build your first then you'll have no more questions for any more traditional slab builds.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 7:50 pm

With the burning need for documentation....... Snakeman is this you ?
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 9:34 pm

I remember my first MoJo build. I had a ton of questions. Don't feel bad asking for help/clarification... I still can get build locked on some simple ass things. Takes me a day then I just say WTH and go for it. Just about anything can be fixed later somehow.

I do like the tape method someone posted for the LE sheeting. I use a seamstress tape measure (fabric tape measure) to measure the LE and that has always worked for me. I do agree with others, I've never had a problem with the documented measurements.

I have also used both servo wire methods. Now that I am done learning and don't hit the ground quite as hard as I used to, I run them in the tube on the bigger stuff (60 and up) the 40 size stuff I have always just taped to the outside. I may also start to use the "straw" method.

Final assembly for me is the similar as woodpilot except I glue the tube into the fuse when I build the fuse. Then:

Stab glued in
Wing with epoxy on the outside and Gorilla glue inside the tube tunnel
Nose/mount with epoxy

I always glue one piece of tri stock on the stab before inserting to help with stab alignment. I have even glued tri stock on both sides before (dumbass attack) and had to cut the TE of fuse to get it in. It's wood, it can always be glued back together.

I have started sheeting the nose with 1/32 ply on both sides for strength on the 60 size. Helps with engine vibration and also those pesky nose overs or nose in doinks.

Servo mounting, always on the outside. I use 4-40 tapped CF tube with 4-40 all thread tits :oops: on the rudder and elevator. Use epoxy to glue in the 4-40 rod and cover it all with heat shrink tube.
20170209_212415.jpg


The ailerons I just use 4-40 with a Dubro E/Z Link .093.

That's just my 2 cent! :rockoncool:
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:10 am

I agree if you have never built that style of plane it can be a little difficult at times. But like Woodpilot said, measure twice, cut and glue once. If you have questions ask. Start a build thread and post them their. Thats what I do. I wear some guys out with texts asking about stuff. But if you have never done it, how would you know.

But that being said, for me after the first one of that style you are golden. With the Glitter Jr, I had not build that style of plane where the tube goes through the wing and gets glued in. So I didn't know about the tube supports that go in between the (2) R1 ribs. So I had to go back and cut the sheeting out and put them in. No biggie. But now I know. And looking back I should have asked what those pieces were for before starting.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:12 am

Thanks guys. I performed some surgery on the leading edge wrap and I think with some solid colored covering material it should look ok. Hope to finish the wing soon and onward to the rest. :tu:
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:40 am

crobar wrote:Thanks guys. I performed some surgery on the leading edge wrap and I think with some solid colored covering material it should look ok. Hope to finish the wing soon and onward to the rest. :tu:


Very good crowbar :tu: . I know your first build on a slab is tedious. This plane really is worth it. When you are flying it you will have a permanent grin on your face :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I flew and abused my 1st Mojo for over 5 years. No price tag could be put on the fun I had with that plane :D

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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:42 am

TurskRO wrote:I remember my first MoJo build. I had a ton of questions. Don't feel bad asking for help/clarification... I still can get build locked on some simple ass things. Takes me a day then I just say WTH and go for it. Just about anything can be fixed later somehow.

I do like the tape method someone posted for the LE sheeting. I use a seamstress tape measure (fabric tape measure) to measure the LE and that has always worked for me. I do agree with others, I've never had a problem with the documented measurements.

I have also used both servo wire methods. Now that I am done learning and don't hit the ground quite as hard as I used to, I run them in the tube on the bigger stuff (60 and up) the 40 size stuff I have always just taped to the outside. I may also start to use the "straw" method.

Final assembly for me is the similar as woodpilot except I glue the tube into the fuse when I build the fuse. Then:

Stab glued in
Wing with epoxy on the outside and Gorilla glue inside the tube tunnel
Nose/mount with epoxy

I always glue one piece of tri stock on the stab before inserting to help with stab alignment. I have even glued tri stock on both sides before (dumbass attack) and had to cut the TE of fuse to get it in. It's wood, it can always be glued back together.

I have started sheeting the nose with 1/32 ply on both sides for strength on the 60 size. Helps with engine vibration and also those pesky nose overs or nose in doinks.

Servo mounting, always on the outside. I use 4-40 tapped CF tube with 4-40 all thread tits :oops: on the rudder and elevator. Use epoxy to glue in the 4-40 rod and cover it all with heat shrink tube.
20170209_212415.jpg


The ailerons I just use 4-40 with a Dubro E/Z Link .093.

That's just my 2 cent! :rockoncool:



That pushrod is a little scary, in my opinion. Even with the shrink tube installed, I've seen carbon tubes fail due to side loading from the threaded rod. The threaded rod can split out the side rather easily. Instead of the shrink tube, I use a small length of aluminum tube over top of the carbon. Much stronger, and I've tested them to destruction....
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 2:50 am

I plan on using an electric set up on this guy [ VH G32 and likely a 4s batt ] so I'd like to know if the location of the elev & rud servos will need to be mounted in different locations than the plan calls out. Ideally I would like to end up with some flexibility to move the batt for and aft for a good c.g. range. :dk:
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:11 am

I had that setup on mine. There is very little room to move a battery on the nose. Mine was a touch nose heavy. I think I added 1oz to the tail. That's not enough to move servos, IMHO.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:36 am

Just from what I've experienced, which isn't much. Its easier to fix a nose heavy plane than a tail heavy. Its like a 3to1 ratio of weight.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 11:29 pm

Thanks. I was hoping to not have to experiment with the servo locations.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:32 am

Its a good thing you thought of that ahead of time though. On a primo you would need to move them forward.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:41 am

Good. One less modification.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 6:23 pm

Regarding the trailing edge of the wing where it meets the ailerons, I am wondering if it would be better to leave the trailing edge at a 90 angle (without the tri-stock) and just taper the leading edge of the ailerons to acquire the proper
amount of aileron swing. I plan to use plastic pinned hinges and the hinge pin area would look strange on the tri-stock surface.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 6:29 pm

If your going to use pin hinges use the small ones.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 6:36 pm

Put the tristock on both sides and sand back where each hinge will go so there isn't a gap.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 8:53 pm

Motowncali wrote:Put the tristock on both sides and sand back where each hinge will go so there isn't a gap.


Or don't recess the hinges and just seal the slight gap with covering. :thinking:

The whole point of the tristock on the trailing edge is to eliminate mechanical binding at throws beyond 45 degrees. Looks or streamlining have nothing to do with it. Since throws beyond 45 degrees are fairly common on a 3D profile, I'd suggest using the tristock on both the trailing edge and the ailerons. Even if you don't use throws beyond 45 degrees at first, the plane will be capable of them in the future when you are ready.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 10:14 pm

McDDD wrote:
Motowncali wrote:Put the tristock on both sides and sand back where each hinge will go so there isn't a gap.


Or don't recess the hinges and just seal the slight gap with covering. :thinking:

The whole point of the tristock on the trailing edge is to eliminate mechanical binding at throws beyond 45 degrees. Looks or streamlining have nothing to do with it. Since throws beyond 45 degrees are fairly common on a 3D profile, I'd suggest using the tristock on both the trailing edge and the ailerons. Even if you don't use throws beyond 45 degrees at first, the plane will be capable of them in the future when you are ready.


^^^ This ^^^
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 11:50 pm

Motowncali wrote:Put the tristock on both sides and sand back where each hinge will go so there isn't a gap.


Just make some depth sanders for the hinge knuckle, makes the job go quick.
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Re: Help with mojo 40

PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 7:32 am

PAR wrote:
Motowncali wrote:Put the tristock on both sides and sand back where each hinge will go so there isn't a gap.


Just make some depth sanders for the hinge knuckle, makes the job go quick.



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